Once a year, the walled city of Lo Manthang in Upper Mustang comes alive with drums, horns and masked dancers for Tiji, one of the most remarkable festivals in the Himalaya.
Quick answer: Tiji is a three-day festival held in Lo Manthang, usually in May. The name is short for "Tenpa Chirim", a prayer for world peace. Monks in elaborate masks re-enact the story of Dorje Jono, an incarnation of the Buddha, who defeats a demon that brought drought and disaster to the kingdom.
The three days
- Day 1: masked dances begin the story of the demon's misdeeds.
- Day 2: the story continues with more dances.
- Day 3: the demon is defeated and evil is symbolically destroyed, bringing peace and prosperity.
Getting there
Lo Manthang is reached by trek or by jeep from Jomsom. Upper Mustang is a restricted area, so you need a special permit and a licensed guide. See our Upper Mustang jeep tour and Upper Mustang trek, both offered with Tiji departures.
Tips
- Book well ahead: Lo Manthang's lodges fill up for Tiji.
- Check the dates each year, as they follow the lunar calendar.
- Bring sun protection and warm layers; it is windy and dusty.
Read our Upper Mustang guide.
Tiji at a glance
| Detail | |
|---|---|
| Where | The main square of Lo Manthang, Upper Mustang, about 3,840 m |
| When | Three days in the third Tibetan month, usually in May |
| Performed by | Monks of Chode Monastery in Lo Manthang |
| Meaning | The victory of the deity Dorje Jono over a demon threatening the land, and the purification of the kingdom |
| Permits | Upper Mustang restricted area permit (US$50 per person per day) plus ACAP permit; licensed guide required |
The story of Tiji
The name Tiji is often explained as a shortened form of "tenchi", meaning "prayer for world peace". The festival re-enacts a legend in which a demon, Ma Tam Ru Ta, brought drought, disease and disaster to the land of Lo. The deity Dorje Jono, an incarnation of Guru Rinpoche, battles the demon and, after several attempts, finally defeats it, restoring water and harmony to the kingdom. Over three days, monks in masks and costumes dance the story in the square below the old royal palace, while the people of Lo, in their finest clothes, watch from the square and the surrounding rooftops.
The three days in detail
| Day | Name | What happens |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tsa Chham | A giant thangka of Guru Rinpoche is unfurled on the palace wall; monks perform the first dances, telling the story of the demon's arrival |
| 2 | Nga Chham | Dorje Jono and his attendants continue the battle with the demon in longer, more elaborate dances |
| 3 | Rha Chham / Ngen Chham | The demon is defeated and symbolically destroyed outside the city walls, with firing of old guns, music and celebration |
Lo Manthang: the walled city
Lo Manthang was founded in the 14th or 15th century as the capital of the kingdom of Lo, a Tibetan Buddhist kingdom that controlled the salt and wool trade between Tibet and the lower valleys. Its whitewashed walls enclose a maze of narrow lanes, houses, the four-storey royal palace and remarkable monasteries such as Jampa Lhakhang and Thubchen Gompa, famous for their 15th-century murals, which have been carefully restored. The kingdom of Lo was absorbed into Nepal in the 18th century but kept its own king, the Raja of Mustang, until the monarchy was abolished nationally in 2008. Upper Mustang was closed to foreigners until 1992 and still requires a special permit, which has helped protect its culture. See Upper Mustang trek.
Getting there for Tiji
There are two main ways to reach Lo Manthang:
- Trekking: fly from Pokhara to Jomsom, walk to Kagbeni, and trek north through Chele, Syangboche, Ghami and Tsarang to Lo Manthang in about 4–5 days.
- Jeep: drive from Jomsom or Pokhara along the road up the Kali Gandaki, reaching Lo Manthang in one to two days. See trek vs jeep.
A typical Tiji trip takes 12–16 days from Kathmandu, including time to explore Lo Manthang, the Chhoser sky caves and villages around it.
Permits in detail
Upper Mustang is a restricted area. Foreigners need the Upper Mustang restricted area permit, which costs US$50 per person per day, issued for a minimum period through a registered trekking agency, plus the Annapurna Conservation Area permit. A licensed guide is required. Since 22 March 2026, the former rule requiring at least two trekkers has been removed, so solo travellers can now obtain the permit, still with a licensed guide. Your trekking company applies for permits in Kathmandu with your passport and photos. See permits guide.
Weather and what to pack
May in Upper Mustang is dry and sunny, but the wind can be strong and dusty in the afternoons, and nights are cold, often near freezing. Bring a windproof jacket, warm layers, a hat and gloves, a buff or scarf against dust, sunglasses, high-factor sunscreen and lip balm. A down jacket is useful in the evenings. The sun is intense at this altitude, so cover up during the long hours in the square.
Accommodation during Tiji
Lo Manthang has a growing number of guesthouses and lodges, from simple rooms to more comfortable hotels, and at least one luxury lodge in the region. During Tiji, demand rises sharply, so book well in advance. Your trekking company will arrange rooms. See Mustang lodges.
Etiquette at Tiji
- Arrive early to find a place to sit; locals have traditional spots, so don't block them.
- Don't enter the dance area or walk in front of the dancers.
- Photography is generally allowed, but be discreet; ask before photographing people, and avoid flash.
- Dress modestly and remove hats near monks and sacred objects.
- Make a donation to the monastery to support the festival.
Exploring Upper Mustang around Tiji
Plan extra days in and around Lo Manthang to explore the region. North of the city, the villages of Chhoser and Nyiphu have cliffside monasteries and the famous sky caves, multi-storey cave dwellings carved into the cliffs centuries ago. Garphu and Namgyal Gompa are short walks or rides away. On the way to or from Lo Manthang, Tsarang has a large monastery and old palace, Ghami has one of the longest mani walls in Nepal, and the red cliffs of Dhakmar are linked to legends of Guru Rinpoche. Many travellers return via Lo Gekar (Ghar Gompa), one of the oldest monasteries in Nepal. Horse riding is a popular way to explore around Lo Manthang. See Chhoser caves.
Life in Lo Manthang
The people of Lo, the Loba, are Tibetan Buddhists who traditionally lived from farming barley and buckwheat in irrigated fields, herding yaks, goats and horses, and trading salt and wool across the Himalaya. Life is shaped by the harsh, dry climate: houses have flat roofs stacked with firewood, and many families still move to lower valleys in winter. Tourism, road access and migration are changing the region quickly, but traditions such as Tiji remain central to community life. Visiting during the festival is a chance to see this culture at its most vibrant.
A sample Tiji itinerary
| Days | Plan |
|---|---|
| 1–2 | Kathmandu; permits; fly or drive to Pokhara |
| 3 | Fly to Jomsom, walk to Kagbeni |
| 4–7 | Trek via Chele, Syangboche, Ghami and Tsarang to Lo Manthang |
| 8–10 | Tiji festival in Lo Manthang |
| 11 | Chhoser and the sky caves |
| 12–14 | Return via Lo Gekar, or by jeep to Jomsom |
| 15 | Fly to Pokhara |
Responsible travel in Upper Mustang
Upper Mustang's culture and environment are fragile. Use refillable water bottles, carry out your rubbish, buy local products such as apples, sea buckthorn juice and handicrafts, respect monasteries and chortens, and ask before photographing people. Choose lodges owned by local families, and travel with a guide who knows the region and its people.