Kathmandu Durbar Square, also called Basantapur or Hanuman Dhoka, was the royal heart of the old city, where kings were crowned and festivals still unfold.
Quick answer: don't miss the Hanuman Dhoka palace, the Kumari Ghar (home of the living goddess), the Kal Bhairav statue, the tall Taleju Temple and the Kasthamandap, rebuilt after the 2015 earthquake and completed in 2021. Foreign visitors pay an entry fee.
What to see
- Hanuman Dhoka: the old palace complex, guarded by a statue of Hanuman.
- Kumari Ghar: the carved palace of the living goddess; no photos of the Kumari.
- Kal Bhairav: a fierce stone image of Shiva.
- Taleju Temple: one of the tallest temples in the square.
- Kasthamandap: the ancient pavilion said to have given Kathmandu its name, rebuilt after the earthquake.
- Freak Street: the old hippie street just south of the square.
After the earthquake
Several temples were damaged in 2015; many have been rebuilt using traditional techniques, and work continues on some buildings.
Festivals
The square is the centre of Indra Jatra and Holi celebrations.
Tips
- Go early, before the crowds and traffic.
- Keep your ticket; it may be checked.
- Walk there from Thamel through Asan; see our old-town walk.
Durbar Square at a glance
| Detail | |
|---|---|
| Also called | Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square; Basantapur Durbar Square |
| Location | Heart of Kathmandu's old city, about 15–20 minutes' walk from Thamel |
| Entry fee | About NPR 1,000 for foreigners |
| Time needed | Two to three hours |
| UNESCO | Part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site |
| Best time | Early morning or late afternoon |
The main monuments in detail
Hanuman Dhoka Palace
The old royal palace of the Malla and later Shah kings takes its name from the statue of the monkey god Hanuman, draped in red cloth and shaded by an umbrella, guarding the entrance. Inside are a series of courtyards, including Nasal Chowk, where coronations took place, and the Basantapur Tower (Nautalle Durbar), a nine-storey tower built in the 18th century. Parts of the palace house the Tribhuvan Museum, with exhibits on the Shah kings. See Hanuman Dhoka.
Kasthamandap
The Kasthamandap, a large wooden pavilion, is said to have been built from the timber of a single tree and gave Kathmandu its name ("wooden pavilion"). It was one of the oldest buildings in the valley, used as a rest house and later a shrine to Gorakhnath. It collapsed completely in the 2015 earthquake and was rebuilt by the local community, using traditional materials and techniques, reopening in 2021.
Taleju Temple
The tallest temple in the square, built in 1564 by King Mahendra Malla and dedicated to Taleju Bhawani, the royal goddess of the Malla kings. It stands on a stepped platform and is open to Hindus only on one day a year, during Dashain.
Kal Bhairav
A huge, brightly painted stone relief of Bhairav, the fierce form of Shiva, with six arms and a garland of skulls. Legend says that anyone who told a lie in front of it would die, and it was once used as a place to test the truth of witnesses.
Kumari Ghar
The home of the living goddess, built in 1757, with beautifully carved windows around an inner courtyard. Visitors may enter the courtyard, and the Kumari sometimes appears at a window, but photography of her is forbidden. See Kumari Ghar and Kumari.
Other highlights
- Maju Deval: a tiered temple on a high plinth, a popular place to sit and watch the square.
- Shiva-Parvati Temple: with carved figures of Shiva and Parvati looking out of an upper window.
- Jagannath Temple: known for its erotic carvings on the roof struts.
- Gaddi Baithak: a white neoclassical palace wing built in 1908, a striking contrast with the Newar architecture.
- Seto Bhairav mask: hidden behind a screen, displayed during Indra Jatra.
History
Kathmandu Durbar Square was the seat of royal power for centuries. The Malla kings, who ruled the Kathmandu Valley from the 12th to the 18th century, built many of its temples and palaces, competing with their rivals in Patan and Bhaktapur. After Prithvi Narayan Shah conquered Kathmandu in 1768, during Indra Jatra, the Shah dynasty ruled from Hanuman Dhoka until the late 19th century, when the royal family moved to Narayanhiti Palace. The square remained the setting for coronations and royal ceremonies until the end of the monarchy in 2008.
Restoration after 2015
The 2015 earthquake caused severe damage: several temples collapsed, including Kasthamandap, and the palace complex was badly cracked. Reconstruction has been carried out over many years by the Department of Archaeology, local communities and international partners, using traditional brick, timber and craftsmanship where possible. Most of the square has been restored, though some work continues. See UNESCO sites.
Walking to and from the square
From Thamel, a walk through Asan and Indra Chowk bazaars leads to Durbar Square in about 20–30 minutes, passing shrines, spice stalls and temples. South of the square lies Jochhen Tole, the old "Freak Street" of the 1960s hippie era. From the square, you can continue to Swayambhunath on foot in about 30–40 minutes. See Asan Bazaar.
A suggested walking route
- Enter from Basantapur on the south side and visit the Kumari Ghar courtyard.
- Walk past Kasthamandap and the rebuilt temples towards Maju Deval; climb its steps for a view of the square.
- Continue to the Shiva-Parvati Temple and the Hanuman statue at the palace gate.
- Visit the palace courtyards and the Tribhuvan Museum.
- See the Kal Bhairav relief and the Jagannath Temple.
- Admire the Taleju Temple from outside.
- Leave north towards Indra Chowk and Asan for the bazaars.
Festivals in more detail
Durbar Square comes alive at festivals. During Indra Jatra (August or September), the Kumari's chariot is pulled through the square, masked dancers perform, and the Seto Bhairav mask pours rice beer. During Dashain, the Taleju Temple opens to Hindus, and the Phulpati procession enters the palace. At Holi, the chir pole is raised in Basantapur and the square fills with colour. Gai Jatra processions pass through the old city. See Indra Jatra and Holi.
Guides and tickets
Foreign visitors buy tickets at booths at the main entrances; keep your ticket, as it may be checked again, and ask whether multi-day passes are available if you plan to return. Licensed guides offer tours at the entrances; agree the price and duration first. A good guide brings the history, legends and iconography to life and helps you find hidden courtyards. Audio guides and guidebooks are alternatives.
Life in the square
Beyond the monuments, Durbar Square is a living public space. In the early morning, locals visit shrines with offerings, vegetable sellers set up near Indra Chowk, and pigeons crowd Basantapur. Porters rest on temple steps, students sketch the temples, and older men chat on the platforms of Maju Deval. In the evening, the steps fill with people watching the sunset over the rooftops. Sitting on a temple plinth and watching daily life unfold is one of the best ways to experience Kathmandu.
Photography tips
Early morning light is best for the temples, before the square becomes crowded. Climb the steps of Maju Deval or a rooftop café on Basantapur for elevated views. A wide-angle lens captures the density of temples, and a short telephoto picks out carvings and faces. Photography of the Kumari is forbidden. Ask before photographing sadhus and people, and expect some to ask for a donation. See photo spots.
Combining with other sights
Durbar Square fits easily into a day with other Kathmandu highlights. Start at Swayambhunath at sunrise and walk down to the square, about 30–40 minutes, then explore the bazaars of Indra Chowk and Asan on your way to Thamel. In the afternoon, take a taxi to Pashupatinath and Boudhanath. Alternatively, combine Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur Durbar Squares on a full heritage day. See Kathmandu in three days.