Most treks in Nepal are built around teahouses. You walk all day, and at the end there is a lodge with a stove, a menu and a bed. The Dhaulagiri Circuit is not one of those treks. For about a week of it there are no villages at all, just moraine, glacier and two high passes, and everything you eat and sleep in is carried in by your crew. It is one of the toughest trekking routes in Nepal, and one of the most satisfying.
The loop circles Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m), the seventh-highest mountain in the world, crossing French Pass (5,360 m) into the empty bowl of Hidden Valley and dropping over Dhampus Pass to the apple orchards of the Kali Gandaki. This guide is for people seriously considering it: what the route involves, how hard it really is, when to go, and whether you are ready.
Quick answer: the Dhaulagiri Circuit is a strenuous 16–19 day camping trek in west-central Nepal. It starts at Darbang (a day's drive from Pokhara), follows the Myagdi Khola to Italian Base Camp, crosses the Chhonbardan Glacier to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4,750 m), then goes over French Pass (5,360 m) and Dhampus Pass (about 5,240 m) to finish at Marpha or Jomsom. Best in late September–November and April–May. Previous high-altitude trekking experience is strongly recommended.
Dhaulagiri Circuit at a glance
| Fact | Details |
|---|---|
| Region | Myagdi and Mustang districts, west-central Nepal |
| Duration | 16–19 days from Kathmandu (12–14 days walking) |
| Highest point | French Pass, 5,360 m |
| Start | Darbang (about 1,100 m), by road from Pokhara via Beni |
| Finish | Marpha or Jomsom, then flight or drive to Pokhara |
| Grade | Strenuous |
| Accommodation | Teahouses for the first few days, then full camping |
| Permits | Annapurna Conservation Area permit and local fees |
| Best time | Late September–November, April–May |
Dhaulagiri: the White Mountain
Dhaulagiri comes from Sanskrit: dhavala, dazzling white, and giri, mountain. When surveyors first measured it in the early 19th century, it was briefly thought to be the highest mountain on Earth, until Kangchenjunga and then Everest were measured. It was finally climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian expedition that included Kurt Diemberger, and it was one of the last of the 8,000 m peaks to be summited.
What makes Dhaulagiri special for trekkers is its relationship with the Kali Gandaki gorge. Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I stand on either side of the river, both above 8,000 m and only about 35 km apart, with the valley floor between them at around 2,500 m. On the last days of the circuit you walk down into that gorge, which is often called the deepest in the world.
The route
Exact stages vary with conditions and the size of the group, but a typical itinerary looks like this:
| Day | Stage | Altitude | Sleep |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Arrive in Kathmandu | 1,400 m | Hotel |
| 2 | Fly or drive to Pokhara | 820 m | Hotel |
| 3 | Drive to Darbang via Beni | 1,110 m | Lodge |
| 4 | Trek to Dharapani | 1,560 m | Lodge |
| 5 | Trek to Muri | 1,850 m | Lodge |
| 6 | Trek to Boghara | 2,080 m | Lodge or camp |
| 7 | Trek to Dobang | 2,520 m | Camp |
| 8 | Trek to Choriban Khola (Sallaghari) | 3,110 m | Camp |
| 9 | Trek to Italian Base Camp | 3,660 m | Camp |
| 10 | Acclimatisation day | 3,660 m | Camp |
| 11 | Trek to Glacier Camp | 4,200 m | Camp |
| 12 | Trek to Dhaulagiri Base Camp | 4,750 m | Camp |
| 13 | Cross French Pass to Hidden Valley | 5,360 m / 5,050 m | Camp |
| 14 | Cross Dhampus Pass to Yak Kharka | 5,240 m / 3,680 m | Camp |
| 15 | Trek to Marpha, drive to Jomsom | 2,670 m | Lodge |
| 16 | Fly to Pokhara | 820 m | Hotel |
| 17 | Return to Kathmandu | 1,400 m | Hotel |
| 18 | Departure | – | – |
Darbang to Dobang: villages and forest
The road from Pokhara runs to Beni, where the Myagdi Khola meets the Kali Gandaki, and on up the Myagdi valley to Darbang. Some groups now drive further, depending on the state of the track. The first days are warm and green, through terraced hillsides and villages of Magar and Chhantyal people, with rice and millet in the fields and buffalo in the yards. Muri is a big, friendly Magar village on a sunny shelf above the river, and the last place of any size.
Beyond Boghara the valley narrows and the trail plunges into forest of oak, rhododendron and bamboo, with the river roaring somewhere below. Lodges thin out and then stop. From here on, your crew pitches the tents and cooks.
Italian Base Camp
Italian Base Camp is a flat grassy area at about 3,660 m, named after an Italian expedition that used it in the 1970s. The west face of Dhaulagiri towers above you, so close and so steep that you have to tilt your head right back to see the top. Most groups spend two nights here. The rest day is not optional. It is your last chance to acclimatise before the trail climbs quickly onto the glacier.
The Chhonbardan Glacier
This is the section that gives the Dhaulagiri Circuit its reputation. From Italian Base Camp you descend a steep, loose slope (fixed ropes are sometimes used) into the gorge and then walk up the Chhonbardan Glacier itself, picking a route over rubble-covered ice and moraine. The route-finding is done by your guide, and it changes from season to season. Rockfall is a real hazard in the narrowest part of the gorge, so you move through it early in the day, quickly and without stopping.
Above Glacier Camp (about 4,200 m) the valley opens out, and you walk up the glacier to Dhaulagiri Base Camp at around 4,750 m. Here the north face of Dhaulagiri I rises in front of you, with icefall and hanging glaciers, and you will hear avalanches in the night. It is a cold, stark and unforgettable place to camp.
French Pass and Hidden Valley
From base camp the climb to French Pass (5,360 m) is long but not technical when conditions are good: a steady snow or scree slope for several hours, at an altitude that makes every step count. The pass was named after the French expedition of 1950, led by Maurice Herzog, which explored the area while looking for a route up Dhaulagiri. They gave up on it and went on to climb Annapurna instead.
From the top you look east to Tukuche Peak and back to the Dhaulagiri massif. On the far side lies Hidden Valley, a wide, wind-scoured basin at about 5,050 m, surrounded by snow peaks with barely a plant in sight. Blue sheep graze here, and snow leopards are known to hunt in the area, though you are very unlikely to see one. Nights in Hidden Valley are the coldest of the trek, often −15°C or below.
Dhampus Pass and the descent to Marpha
The second pass, Dhampus Pass (also called Thapa Pass, about 5,240 m), takes you out of Hidden Valley. The approach is gentler than French Pass, but the descent on the far side is long and steep, sometimes on snow, and in poor visibility this is where good guiding matters most. As you come down you get your first view across the Kali Gandaki to Nilgiri and the Annapurnas. You camp at Yak Kharka on the open slopes, then drop steeply to Marpha, a whitewashed Thakali village famous for its apple orchards, apple brandy and dried fruit. After a week of tents, a hot shower and a slice of apple pie feel like the height of luxury.
How hard is the Dhaulagiri Circuit?
We grade it strenuous, and we are honest with people who ask whether it is right for them. Here is what makes it hard:
- Altitude: you spend several nights above 4,500 m, including one or two at around 5,000 m.
- Terrain: moraine, loose scree and glacier walking, with some steep sections where you might use a fixed rope or wear microspikes or crampons.
- Remoteness: between Boghara and Yak Kharka there are no villages. If something goes wrong, evacuation is by helicopter, weather permitting.
- Weather: snow can fall on the passes at any time of year, and a storm can pin you down in Hidden Valley for a day or more.
The trek doesn't require mountaineering skills, but it does require mountain experience. Ideally you have already done a trek above 5,000 m, such as the Everest Base Camp trek, the Annapurna Circuit or the Manaslu Circuit, and you know how your body reacts to altitude. You should be comfortable walking 7–8 hours on rough ground for several days in a row.
Camping on the Dhaulagiri Circuit
This is a fully supported camping trek. A typical crew includes a lead guide, an assistant guide, a cook, kitchen helpers and porters, and the ratio of staff to trekkers is much higher than on a teahouse trek. The crew pitches sleeping tents, a dining tent and a toilet tent, and the cook produces three hot meals a day: porridge and eggs in the morning, a hot lunch, soup and a full dinner in the evening. Hot drinks appear in your tent door at dawn.
For trekkers used to teahouses, camping is slower and more peaceful. Without the noise of a lodge dining room, evenings are spent around a lamp in the mess tent and nights under extraordinary skies. It is also more expensive, because everything has to be carried, which is a big part of why the Dhaulagiri Circuit costs more than routes of similar length.
We take care of our crew on this route in particular. Porters on the Dhaulagiri Circuit should have proper boots, warm clothing, sunglasses, shelter and insurance. Ask any company you are considering how they equip their porters for the passes. The answer tells you a lot.
Best time to trek
| Season | Conditions | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Late September–November | Stable weather, clear views, cold nights; snow on the passes possible from November | Best season |
| December–March | Heavy snow on French and Dhampus passes | Not recommended |
| April–May | Warmer, more snow lying on the passes, afternoon cloud | Good second choice |
| June–early September | Monsoon rain lower down, leeches, landslides, poor visibility | Not recommended |
October is the most reliable month. Late spring is also good, though some years leave deep snow on the passes into May, making the crossing slower and harder.
Permits and rules
The trek passes through the Annapurna Conservation Area on its eastern side, so you need an ACAP permit, plus local fees that we arrange. Dhaulagiri is not a restricted area, so there is no special permit fee. As with other trekking routes in Nepal, a licensed guide is required, and on a camping trek like this you would want one anyway. See our permits guide for current details.
Safety and preparation
- Acclimatisation: don't cut the rest day at Italian Base Camp. If you can, do a shorter high trek before this one.
- Equipment: your guide will tell you whether microspikes, crampons or a harness are needed for the season. We carry ropes and safety gear.
- Insurance: your policy must cover trekking to 5,500 m and helicopter evacuation. Check the altitude limit carefully. Read our insurance guide.
- Communication: there is no mobile signal for much of the route. Our guides carry a satellite device for emergencies.
- Turnaround: there is no shame in turning back. If the weather or someone's health is poor before French Pass, the safest option is to descend the way you came.
What to pack
On top of a standard trekking kit, the Dhaulagiri Circuit needs serious cold-weather gear:
- Four-season sleeping bag rated to −20°C. Hidden Valley gets very cold.
- Heavy down jacket with a hood, and insulated trousers or warm layers for the camps.
- Stiff, waterproof boots that can take microspikes or crampons, plus gaiters.
- Glacier glasses (category 4) and a spare pair of sunglasses.
- Warm mitts as well as gloves, and spare batteries kept in your sleeping bag.
- Trekking poles, a helmet if your guide recommends one, and a good head torch.
Everything else is in our packing list.
Cost
The Dhaulagiri Circuit costs considerably more than a teahouse trek of the same length because of the camping crew, food, equipment and the logistics of the finish in Jomsom. Our Dhaulagiri Circuit Trek package includes the camping crew, all meals, tents, permits, transport to Darbang and the Jomsom–Pokhara flight. Prices per person drop noticeably for groups of four or more, because the fixed costs of the crew are shared.
Dhaulagiri Circuit vs Annapurna Circuit
| Dhaulagiri Circuit | Annapurna Circuit | |
|---|---|---|
| Highest point | French Pass, 5,360 m | Thorong La, 5,416 m |
| Accommodation | Camping for about a week | Teahouses all the way |
| Terrain | Glacier, moraine, two high passes | Good trail, one high pass |
| Crowds | Very few trekkers | Popular |
| Roads | Only at the start and finish | Roads along parts of the route |
| Grade | Strenuous | Moderate to strenuous |
The Annapurna Circuit is a great first big trek. The Dhaulagiri Circuit is the trek you do after that, when you want something wilder. Some trekkers finish the Dhaulagiri Circuit in Marpha and then walk on down the Kali Gandaki towards Tatopani and Ghorepani to extend the trip. More in our Annapurna Circuit guide.
Is the Dhaulagiri Circuit for you?
If you want comfort, Wi-Fi and a lodge every night, it isn't. But if you have done one or two big treks already and you want real wilderness, glaciers and a couple of serious passes, with no one else around, the Dhaulagiri Circuit is one of the best adventures in Nepal. Standing on French Pass and looking down into Hidden Valley, you will understand why the few people who do this trek talk about it for years. Contact us to talk through your experience and the best dates for you.