For more than forty years, the Annapurna Circuit has been one of the great long-distance walks of the world. It circles the Annapurna massif, climbing from subtropical rice terraces and banana trees through pine forest and Tibetan-style villages to the high, dry Manang valley, crosses the Thorong La Pass (5,416 m), and descends to the sacred temple of Muktinath and the deep gorge of the Kali Gandaki. No other trek in Nepal packs so many landscapes, climates and cultures into a single journey.
The circuit has changed. Roads now reach Manang on the eastern side and Muktinath on the west, and some trekkers wonder whether it is still worth doing. Our answer, after guiding it every season, is an enthusiastic yes, as long as you plan your route to use the new trails away from the road. This guide explains how.
Quick answer: the Annapurna Circuit takes 12–18 days from Kathmandu, reaches 5,416 m at the Thorong La, and costs roughly US$1,000–1,600 with a licensed guide, porter, ACAP permit, lodges and meals. The best months are October–November and March–May. Most trekkers drive to Chame or Dharapani, walk the high route via Upper Pisang and Ngawal to Manang, acclimatise, cross the pass to Muktinath and fly or drive out from Jomsom.
Annapurna Circuit at a glance
| Fact | Details |
|---|---|
| Duration | 12–18 days from Kathmandu |
| Walking distance | About 120–200 km, depending on start and finish |
| Highest point | Thorong La Pass, 5,416 m |
| Highest sleeping altitude | Thorong High Camp, about 4,880 m (or Thorong Phedi, 4,450 m) |
| Grade | Moderate to challenging |
| Start | Besisahar, Dharapani or Chame (by jeep) |
| Finish | Jomsom (flight or drive to Pokhara), or continue to Tatopani and Poon Hill |
| Permit | Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) and TIMS |
| Accommodation | Teahouse lodges throughout |
| Best time | October–November; March–May |
Why the Annapurna Circuit is special
The circuit's magic lies in change. On the first days you walk through the green Marsyangdi valley among Gurung and Hindu villages, rice paddies and waterfalls. As you climb, pine and fir forests give way to the dry, rocky upper valley, and villages such as Upper Pisang, Ghyaru, Ngawal and Manang look Tibetan, with flat-roofed stone houses, prayer flags and monasteries. The view of Annapurna II, III and IV and Gangapurna from the high route is one of the finest in Nepal.
After the high, stark crossing of the Thorong La, you descend into the Mustang district, where the Hindu and Buddhist temple complex of Muktinath draws pilgrims from India and Nepal. The medieval village of Kagbeni, the apple orchards of Marpha and the Thakali culture of the Kali Gandaki valley make the western side just as fascinating. Few treks give you such a complete picture of Himalayan life.
The roads: is the Annapurna Circuit still worth it?
Road construction since the late 2000s has brought jeeps to Manang on the east side and to Muktinath on the west. Trekkers who walk only on the road find it dusty and noisy. But the Nepal government and ACAP have developed the New Annapurna Trekking Trails (NATT), alternative footpaths on the opposite side of the valley to the road for much of the route. The section most people miss is the high route from Upper Pisang via Ghyaru and Ngawal to Manang: no road at all, and the Annapurnas directly across the valley.
Most modern itineraries therefore start with a jeep ride to Chame or Dharapani, skipping the lowest and most road-affected section, and use trails on the far bank. On the west side, many trekkers take a jeep or bus from Muktinath or Jomsom rather than walking the road. The result is a shorter, higher-quality trek that keeps all of the circuit's highlights.
Recommended 14-day itinerary
| Day | Route | Sleeping altitude |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Arrive in Kathmandu | 1,400 m |
| 2 | Drive to Besisahar and jeep to Chame | 2,670 m |
| 3 | Trek to Upper Pisang | 3,310 m |
| 4 | High route via Ghyaru to Ngawal | 3,660 m |
| 5 | Trek to Manang via Braga | 3,540 m |
| 6 | Acclimatisation day in Manang (Ice Lake or Gangapurna viewpoint) | 3,540 m |
| 7 | Trek to Yak Kharka or Ledar | 4,050–4,200 m |
| 8 | Trek to Thorong Phedi or High Camp | 4,450–4,880 m |
| 9 | Cross Thorong La (5,416 m) to Muktinath | 3,800 m |
| 10 | Visit Muktinath, walk to Kagbeni, drive to Marpha | 2,670 m |
| 11 | Drive or walk to Jomsom | 2,720 m |
| 12 | Fly to Pokhara | 820 m |
| 13 | Drive or fly to Kathmandu | 1,400 m |
| 14 | Departure | — |
Have a look at our Annapurna Circuit Trek for a detailed itinerary. Longer versions add Tilicho Lake, the Nar Phu Valley or a descent via Tatopani hot springs to Poon Hill.
Crossing the Thorong La
The Thorong La is the heart of the trek and its biggest challenge. At 5,416 m it is one of the highest trekking passes in the world. Most trekkers sleep at Thorong Phedi (4,450 m) or High Camp (about 4,880 m). Sleeping at High Camp shortens pass day but means a night at a higher altitude; your guide will decide based on how the group is acclimatising.
Pass day starts at 4 or 5 a.m. by head torch. From High Camp, the trail climbs steadily over moraine and false summits for three to four hours to the pass, marked by a sign and thousands of prayer flags. It is cold and windy, and snow is possible in any season. After photos and a cup of tea in the small teahouse near the top (open in season), a steep and knee-testing descent of about 1,600 m leads to Muktinath, taking four to five hours. It's a long, hard day, and the one people tell stories about afterwards.
Safety on the pass
- Start early, because winds strengthen in the afternoon.
- Turn back if weather deteriorates or anyone shows signs of altitude sickness.
- Carry microspikes in late autumn, winter and early spring.
- Never cross alone, and follow local advice after snowfall. In October 2014, a sudden storm from Cyclone Hudhud killed dozens of trekkers and staff in the Thorong La area, a tragic reminder that mountain weather must be respected.
Acclimatisation: why Manang matters
The biggest mistake on the circuit is rushing to the pass. Manang (3,540 m) is the natural acclimatisation stop, and we always include at least one rest day there. Use it to hike to the Ice Lake (about 4,600 m), the Gangapurna Lake viewpoint or the Praken Gompa cave monastery above town. Manang also has a Himalayan Rescue Association post, which gives free daily talks on altitude sickness in season. Read our altitude sickness guide before you go.
How difficult is the Annapurna Circuit?
The circuit is moderate to challenging. Most days involve 5–7 hours of walking on good trails, and lodges are frequent, but the altitude is significant and pass day is long and demanding. If you can walk 15–20 km with 800–1,000 m of ascent comfortably, and repeat it for several days, you can do this trek. No technical skills are needed, although in snowy conditions, microspikes and a steady head help on the descent.
Cost of the Annapurna Circuit
| Item | Approximate cost (US$) |
|---|---|
| ACAP permit + TIMS | About 40 |
| Jeep to Chame (shared / private) | 25–40 per person / 250–300 per vehicle |
| Guide (per day) | 30–40 |
| Porter (per day, shared) | 22–30 |
| Lodges and meals (per day) | 25–40 |
| Jomsom–Pokhara flight | 120–140 |
| Full guided package | 1,000–1,600 per person |
For full budgets, see our guide to the cost of trekking in Nepal.
Best time to trek the Annapurna Circuit
- October–November: the best months, with clear skies and a snow-free pass most years. Busy.
- March–May: warmer, with rhododendrons in the lower valleys; the pass may have snow in March.
- December–February: the pass is often closed or dangerous after snow, and high lodges may close.
- June–September: the lower valley is wet, but Manang and the pass lie partly in a rain shadow, and the circuit is quiet. Landslides can affect the road.
Side trips and extensions
- Tilicho Lake (4,919 m): a turquoise lake below Tilicho Peak, reached from Manang in two to three days. Our Tilicho Lake itinerary page has the day-by-day plan.
- Ice Lake: an excellent acclimatisation hike from Braga or Manang.
- Nar Phu Valley: a restricted area of medieval villages north of the circuit.
- Upper Mustang: from Kagbeni, continue north into the Forbidden Kingdom with a special permit.
- Poon Hill: after Jomsom, trek down to Tatopani hot springs and up to Ghorepani for the Poon Hill sunrise.
Lodges and food
Lodges on the circuit are among the best in Nepal. Manang has bakeries, a small cinema showing mountaineering films, gear shops and cafés. Menus are set by lodge committees, and prices rise with altitude. Try the yak burger or apple pie in Manang and the Thakali dal bhat and apple brandy in Marpha. At Thorong Phedi and High Camp, lodges are basic and busy in peak season. Read our guide to teahouse trekking.
Culture along the circuit
The eastern side is home to Gurung communities in the lower valley and Manangi people, of Tibetan origin, in the upper valley, who were historically traders with special privileges granted by the kings of Nepal. On the western side, Thakali people of the Kali Gandaki valley are famous for their hospitality and cuisine, and Muktinath is sacred to Hindus as one of the 108 Vaishnava shrines and to Buddhists as a place where Guru Rinpoche meditated. Respect monasteries and temples, walk clockwise around chortens and ask before photographing people.
Packing tips for the circuit
You need gear for everything from 25°C afternoons in the lower valley to −15°C nights at High Camp. Bring a warm sleeping bag, a good down jacket, layers, a windproof shell, warm gloves and a hat, sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen, and microspikes outside the peak autumn months. Have a look at our full packing list.
A day-by-day story of the circuit
Numbers and tables only tell part of the story, so here is what the circuit actually feels like, day by day. The jeep ride from Besisahar up the Marsyangdi valley is an adventure in itself: the road clings to cliffs above the roaring river, passes waterfalls that pour straight onto the track, and climbs through Gurung villages with terraced fields and banana trees. By the time you reach Chame, the district headquarters of Manang, the air is cooler, pine forests cover the slopes, and the white summit of Annapurna II appears between the ridges.
The walk from Chame to Upper Pisang passes Paungda Danda, a vast curved slab of rock rising more than 1,500 m from the river, which local people believe is a gateway to heaven. Upper Pisang itself is a cluster of stone houses and a monastery perched on the hillside, with a sunset view of Annapurna II that stops everyone in their tracks. The next day, the high route climbs steeply to Ghyaru, an ancient village of flat-roofed houses, then contours along the mountainside to Ngawal. This is, in our opinion, the most beautiful day of the whole circuit: prayer flags, chortens, barley fields and the entire Annapurna range laid out across the valley.
From Ngawal, the trail descends gently to Braga, with its centuries-old monastery built into the cliff, and on to Manang. Here the rhythm slows. You rest, hike, eat apple pie and watch the evening light on Gangapurna's glacier. The next two days climb steadily through yak pastures to Yak Kharka, Ledar and Thorong Phedi, the landscape becoming barer and more rugged. The night before the pass is cold and restless; many trekkers barely sleep. Then comes the long climb in the dark, the prayer flags at dawn, the sense of relief at the top, and the steep descent to Muktinath, where the temple bells and green poplar trees feel like a different world.
On the western side, the landscape changes again. Kagbeni, a medieval village of mud-brick houses and narrow alleys at the gateway to Upper Mustang, is one of the most atmospheric places in Nepal. Marpha, with its whitewashed houses and apple orchards, is famous for its brandy and dried apples. And the flight from Jomsom to Pokhara, through the deepest gorge in the world between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna, is a thrilling end to the journey.
Who is the Annapurna Circuit for?
The circuit suits trekkers who enjoy variety and a sense of journey. It suits people who have done a shorter trek such as Poon Hill or Annapurna Base Camp and want something bigger, anyone who wants to cross a high pass without technical climbing, and travellers curious about where Hindu and Buddhist Nepal meet. It is also a good choice for trekkers who want to avoid mountain flights at the start, as the entire eastern side is reached by road. It is less suitable for those who are nervous about altitude above 5,000 m or who have only a week; for them, a shorter trek is a better choice.
Walking the circuit clockwise or anticlockwise?
Almost everyone walks the circuit anticlockwise, from east to west, starting in the Marsyangdi valley and crossing the Thorong La from Manang to Muktinath. There is a good reason: the ascent from the east is gradual, with Manang providing perfect acclimatisation, and the climb to the pass from Thorong Phedi is about 1,000 m. From the west, the climb from Muktinath is about 1,600 m in one day, from a lower altitude with less time to acclimatise. We strongly recommend the anticlockwise direction for safety and enjoyment.
Trekking the circuit responsibly
The Annapurna Conservation Area was one of the first protected areas in the world to put local communities at the centre of conservation, and it remains a model for sustainable tourism. You can help by using safe drinking water stations rather than buying plastic bottles, carrying out batteries and non-biodegradable waste, staying in locally owned lodges, and respecting cultural sites. In Manang and Mustang, water is scarce; keep showers short. And remember that the trails are shared with mule trains, porters and local people carrying loads: always step to the mountain side of the trail when animals pass.
Common questions from our trekkers
Can I do the circuit in 10 days? A fast itinerary starting at Chame and ending in Jomsom is possible in about 10 days from Kathmandu, but it leaves little room for acclimatisation or bad weather, and we do not recommend it for first-time high-altitude trekkers. Is there phone signal? Yes, in most villages, and Wi-Fi is widely available in lodges. Can I charge devices? Yes, for a small fee in most lodges. Is it too crowded? In October the trail is busy, especially between Manang and the pass, but the high route and the western side are much quieter. What if I cannot cross the pass? If weather or altitude prevents a crossing, you can return to Manang and drive out, or take a helicopter in an emergency; this is one reason we always recommend good insurance.
The circuit then and now
When the Annapurna region opened to foreign trekkers in 1977, the circuit took three weeks or more, all on foot from near Kathmandu, with basic lodges and dal bhat the only meal. Early trekkers wrote of villages that had rarely seen outsiders, of crossing the pass in deep snow, and of rice terraces stretching to the horizon. Today, roads, Wi-Fi, bakeries and hot showers have changed the experience, and some old-timers lament what has been lost. But the mountains, the pass and the change in culture from one side to the other are all still there. If you take the high routes and stay in the quieter villages, it's still one of the great walks.
Training for the Annapurna Circuit
Because the circuit is long and high, preparation pays off. Start training at least two to three months before your trip. Build up to long hill walks of five to six hours with a light pack, ideally on consecutive days, and include stair climbing or step-ups to strengthen your legs for the long descent from the Thorong La to Muktinath, which is where many trekkers feel the strain. Cardiovascular training such as running, cycling or swimming three times a week improves your stamina. Break in your boots well, and practise walking with trekking poles. If you have access to hills or mountains above 2,000 m, a weekend there before your trip helps you learn how your body responds to altitude. Our guide on how to train for a Himalayan trek has a detailed plan that works equally well for the circuit.
Money, charging and connectivity
There are ATMs in Chame, Manang and Jomsom, but they are not always reliable and often run out of cash in peak season, so bring enough Nepali rupees from Kathmandu or Pokhara for the whole trek. Budget about US$10–20 a day for extras such as hot showers, battery charging, Wi-Fi and snacks if meals are included. Lodges charge for charging, and prices rise with altitude. Mobile coverage from Nepal Telecom and Ncell is available in most villages, and many lodges offer Wi-Fi, so you can usually stay in touch with home.
Insurance and emergencies on the circuit
Because the Annapurna Circuit reaches 5,416 m, your travel insurance must cover trekking to at least that altitude, plus emergency helicopter evacuation. Rescue helicopters can reach most parts of the circuit in good weather, and the Himalayan Rescue Association post in Manang and health posts in larger villages provide basic care. Your guide will carry a first-aid kit and a phone, and our office in Kathmandu coordinates any evacuation with your insurer. Keep your policy number and emergency contact details on your phone and on paper. Have a look at our guide to travel insurance for Nepal trekking for what to look for.
Annapurna Circuit or Everest Base Camp?
Both are excellent. The circuit offers more variety, a journey through several cultures and climates, and the thrill of crossing a high pass; it is reached by road. Everest Base Camp has bigger mountains, Sherpa culture and Everest itself, but you depend on the Lukla flight and come back the same way. Many trekkers do both on different trips. Our ABC vs EBC comparison may also help.
Is the Annapurna Circuit still worth it?
The Annapurna Circuit remains one of the greatest treks in the world. Roads have changed parts of it, but with a smart itinerary that uses the high routes and new trails, you still get the full sweep of Himalayan landscapes and cultures, the challenge of a high pass and the warmth of some of Nepal's best lodges. If you have two weeks and good fitness, it is a trek you will remember for the rest of your life.