Dashain is the biggest and longest festival in Nepal. For about two weeks each autumn, the whole country slows down as people travel home to their families, kites fill the sky, bamboo swings go up in every village, and elders bless the younger generation with red tika and sprigs of sacred barley shoots. If your trip falls during Dashain, you will see Nepal at its most joyful, though you will need to plan around closed offices and busy roads.
Quick answer: Dashain lasts about 15 days and usually falls in late September or October, following the lunar calendar. It celebrates the victory of the goddess Durga over the demon Mahishasura. The most important day is Vijaya Dashami, when elders give tika and jamara. Expect closed offices and banks, packed buses before and after, and a festive mood. Trekking continues normally, but book transport early.
What Dashain celebrates
Dashain honours the goddess Durga in her many forms and her victory over the buffalo demon Mahishasura, a triumph of good over evil. It also coincides with the end of the monsoon and the rice harvest, so it is a time of plenty and family reunion. For many Nepalis working abroad or in the cities, Dashain is the one time of year they go home.
The main days
| Day | Name | What happens |
|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Ghatasthapana | A sacred vessel (kalash) is set up and barley seeds are sown in sand to grow jamara |
| Day 7 | Fulpati | Sacred flowers and leaves are brought from Gorkha to Kathmandu; a parade and gun salute at Tundikhel |
| Day 8 | Maha Ashtami | Night of worship of the fierce goddesses; animal sacrifices at many temples |
| Day 9 | Maha Navami | Worship of tools and vehicles; Taleju temple in Kathmandu opens to the public |
| Day 10 | Vijaya Dashami | Elders give tika and jamara to family members |
| Days 11–15 | Until Kojagrat Purnima | Families continue visiting relatives for tika |
Tika and jamara
On Vijaya Dashami, families gather, dressed in their best clothes, and elders place a tika, a paste of red powder, rice and yoghurt, on the foreheads of younger relatives, along with jamara, the yellow barley shoots grown since the first day, tucked behind the ear. Each tika comes with a blessing and often a little money. Visitors are sometimes invited to receive tika too; if you are, accept it as a great honour.
Kites, swings and feasting
- Kites: the skies over Kathmandu fill with kites, and kite fights are fierce.
- Swings (ping): huge bamboo swings appear in villages, built by the community.
- Food: meat dishes, especially goat, are central to the feast; markets are busy with animals in the days before.
- Playing cards with family is a Dashain tradition.
Animal sacrifice
Animal sacrifice, especially of goats, buffalo and chickens, is part of Dashain worship for many Hindu families and temples, especially on Maha Ashtami and Navami. It can be confronting for visitors. If you prefer not to see it, avoid temples such as Dakshinkali on those days.
Travelling during Dashain
- Offices, banks and many shops close for several days around Vijaya Dashami. Withdraw cash in advance.
- Transport is packed in the days before (people leaving Kathmandu) and after (people returning). Book buses and flights well ahead.
- Kathmandu is quiet on the main days, with less traffic than usual.
- Treks run normally. Dashain falls in the autumn trekking season, and many guides and porters work through it. We plan time off with our staff around your trek.
- Prices: some transport fares rise during the peak travel days.
Dashain and Tihar
About two weeks after Dashain comes Tihar, the festival of lights, in late October or November. Together they make autumn the most festive season of the year. See our festivals guide and Nepal in October.
Experiencing Dashain respectfully
- If invited to a home for tika, bring a small gift such as fruit or sweets.
- Bow slightly to receive tika and say "dhanyabad" (thank you).
- Ask before photographing family ceremonies.
- Expect to be offered a lot of food; it is polite to try a little of everything.
Planning a trip around Dashain
Dashain is a wonderful time to be in Nepal, as long as you plan transport and money in advance. A trek or tour that starts a few days after Vijaya Dashami avoids the worst of the travel rush. Contact us and we'll plan around the festival dates.