If you have trekked in Nepal, you have almost certainly spent at least one night in Thamel. It is Kathmandu's travellers' quarter: a tangle of narrow lanes packed with guesthouses, trekking shops, bookshops, momo stalls and, after dark, more bars than anywhere else in Nepal. For trekkers it is the place to stock up before the mountains and celebrate when you come back down. For young Nepalis it is one of the city's main places to go out.
Thamel can be overwhelming the first time: the noise, the motorbikes squeezing past, the bands competing from neighbouring buildings. But once you know how it works, it is a lot of fun. Here is our local guide.
Quick answer: Thamel's nightlife is centred on Thamel Marg, JP Road and the lanes around Thamel Chowk. Expect live rock bands from about 8 pm in many bars, plus pubs, rooftop bars and a few clubs that get busy at weekends. Most places wind down around midnight, with some clubs open later. A large local beer costs about NPR 600–900. Watch out for drug sellers, inflated bills in "dance bars" and motorbikes in narrow lanes. Get home with Pathao or inDrive.
Thamel at a glance
| What | Details |
|---|---|
| Location | North of Kathmandu Durbar Square, about 15 minutes' walk from the old city |
| Main streets | Thamel Marg, JP Road, Chaksibari Marg, the lanes around Thamel Chowk and Mandala Street |
| Live music | Every night, from about 8 pm |
| Busiest nights | Friday and Saturday (Saturday is the Nepali weekend day) |
| Typical closing | Around midnight for bars; later for some clubs |
| Beer | NPR 600–900 for a large local beer |
| Getting home | Walk if you are staying in Thamel; otherwise Pathao, inDrive or taxi |
The live music bars
Live music is what Thamel does best. Many bars have a resident Nepali band that plays covers, classic rock, blues, reggae and Nepali rock, and the standard is often impressive. A few long-running favourites have been part of Thamel's nightlife for years, including Purple Haze (a big, loud rock bar), Sam's Bar (small, friendly and full of climbers and guides) and House of Music (a more varied programme with Nepali and international acts). Venues come and go, so ask your hotel or guide what's good this season. The best approach is simply to walk the main streets after 8 pm and follow the music.
A few tips:
- Bands start around 8 pm and play several sets until closing.
- Most bars don't charge entry; you just buy drinks.
- Request songs between sets; the bands are used to it.
- If you play, some bars host open jam nights where travellers can join in.
Pubs and sports bars
Thamel has several Irish-style pubs and sports bars that show international football, cricket and rugby on big screens, with pub quizzes and happy hours on some nights. They are a good place to meet other travellers, watch the Premier League with a crowd of enthusiastic Nepali fans, or just have a quieter drink. Time differences mean big European matches are often shown late in the evening.
Rooftop bars
Many Thamel restaurants and bars have rooftop terraces, and on a clear evening you can see the lights of the valley and, before dark, sometimes the outline of the Himalaya to the north. Rooftops are great for a sunset drink in October, November and spring, when the air is clear and evenings are mild. In winter, look for ones with fire pits and blankets.
Clubs
Thamel has a handful of nightclubs, playing a mix of international and Nepali pop, hip-hop and EDM, with DJs at the weekend. They fill up late, after the bars close, especially on Friday and Saturday nights. The crowd is mostly young Nepalis with some travellers. Expect a cover charge at weekends at some venues, and dress a little smarter than your trekking clothes.
Where to eat late
Thamel has a huge choice of food, and some kitchens stay open later than in the rest of the city:
- Momos: the classic late-night snack, steamed or fried, from street stalls and small momo shops.
- Dal bhat: Nepali restaurants and Thakali kitchens serve big, refillable plates of rice, lentils and curry.
- International food: wood-fired pizza, Israeli food, Korean, Indian, Tibetan and more. Many trekkers have a post-trek steak or burger.
- Bakeries: pick up cinnamon rolls and pastries in the evening at a discount, ready for breakfast.
Read our Nepali food guide for what to order.
Shopping at night
Thamel's shops stay open into the evening, so it is a good time to browse trekking gear, pashminas, singing bowls, thangka paintings, books and souvenirs. Prices for souvenirs are usually negotiable; for trekking gear, compare a few shops. If you are buying gear before a trek, read our packing list first.
Opening hours
Official closing times for Thamel bars and clubs have changed several times over the years. In practice, most bars close around midnight, and some clubs stay open later at weekends. Police sometimes enforce closing times strictly, particularly around holidays and elections. Outside Thamel, Kathmandu is very quiet at night.
What things cost
| Item | Rough price |
|---|---|
| Large local beer (650 ml) | NPR 600–900 |
| Cocktail | NPR 700–1,200 |
| Glass of imported wine | NPR 800–1,500 |
| Plate of momos | NPR 250–500 |
| Dal bhat | NPR 400–800 |
| Ride home by app (within the city) | NPR 200–600 |
Prices in Thamel include 13% VAT and often a 10% service charge. Check the menu.
Staying safe in Thamel at night
- Drugs: you will probably be offered hashish or "smoke" on the street. It is illegal and penalties are severe; just keep walking.
- Dance bars and cabin restaurants: some venues lure tourists in and then present inflated bills. Stick to bars with visible menus and prices.
- Traffic: Thamel is only partly pedestrianised, and motorbikes and cars squeeze through narrow lanes. Watch where you walk.
- Pickpockets: keep phones and wallets secure in crowded bars and streets.
- Drinks: keep an eye on your drink, and be careful with home-made spirits.
- Getting home: use Pathao or inDrive, or a taxi with an agreed fare. If you are walking, stick to lit streets.
- Women travellers: Thamel is generally safe, but the usual precautions apply. Our guide for women travellers has more tips.
A night out in Thamel: a suggested plan
- 6 pm: sunset drink on a rooftop.
- 7 pm: dinner: momos and dal bhat, or a celebratory post-trek steak.
- 8.30 pm: live music at a rock bar; move between two or three as the bands change sets.
- 11 pm: a last drink at a pub, or head to a club if it's the weekend.
- Midnight: late momos, then home.
Before and after your trek
Thamel is where most treks begin and end. A word of advice from our guides: don't go big the night before your trek. An early flight to Lukla or a long drive is much harder with a hangover, and alcohol makes acclimatisation worse. Save the celebration for when you're back down. That last night in Thamel, with your guide and porters and the friends you made on the trail, is often one of the best of the whole trip.
Looking for more to do in the city? See our Kathmandu nightlife guide and Kathmandu travel guide, or contact us to plan your trek.