If there is one trek we recommend more than any other to first-time visitors to Nepal, it is the Ghorepani Poon Hill trek. In just three to five days from Pokhara, it takes you through Magar and Gurung villages, up thousands of stone steps into some of the finest rhododendron forest in the world, and to Poon Hill (3,210 m), where the sunrise lights up a panorama of more than twenty peaks, including Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) and Annapurna I (8,091 m).
It's short, low enough to avoid serious altitude problems, and packs in a lot, so it suits beginners, families and anyone with limited time. Below: the itineraries we use, what each day is like, how hard it is, what it costs and how to get the best out of the Poon Hill sunrise.
Quick answer: the Poon Hill trek takes 3–5 days from Pokhara (about 7 days from Kathmandu), reaches 3,210 m at Poon Hill, and is graded easy to moderate. The main challenge is the long flight of stone steps up to Ulleri. A guided trek costs about US$350–600 from Pokhara. It is best from October to April, with rhododendrons at their peak in March–April.
Poon Hill trek at a glance
| Fact | Details |
|---|---|
| Duration | 3–5 days from Pokhara |
| Start | Nayapul, Tikhedhunga or Ulleri (by jeep from Pokhara) |
| Finish | Ghandruk, Kimche or Nayapul |
| Highest point | Poon Hill, 3,210 m |
| Highest night | Ghorepani, 2,860 m |
| Grade | Easy to moderate |
| Permit | Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) and TIMS |
| Best time | October–April |
Classic 4-day itinerary from Pokhara
| Day | Route | Altitude | Walking |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Drive to Tikhedhunga or Ulleri, trek to Ulleri / Banthanti | 2,020–2,250 m | 4–5 hrs |
| 2 | Trek to Ghorepani | 2,860 m | 4–5 hrs |
| 3 | Poon Hill sunrise, trek to Tadapani | 2,630 m | 6 hrs |
| 4 | Trek to Ghandruk, drive to Pokhara | 1,940 m | 3–4 hrs |
This loop avoids retracing your steps and ends in the beautiful Gurung village of Ghandruk. You'll find the route in detail on our Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek page. For a quieter extension, try Khopra Danda, or continue from Tadapani to Annapurna Base Camp.
The trek, day by day
Day 1: the stone steps to Ulleri
From Pokhara, a jeep takes you along the Baglung highway to Nayapul and up a dirt road to Tikhedhunga or even Ulleri, depending on the road conditions and your itinerary. From Tikhedhunga, the trail crosses a suspension bridge and begins the famous climb to Ulleri: roughly 3,000–3,300 stone steps rising about 500 m up the hillside. It is steep and tiring, but there are teahouses and viewpoints along the way, and you can take it slowly. Ulleri is a Magar village with views across the valley to Annapurna South and Hiunchuli.
Day 2: through the rhododendron forest to Ghorepani
Above Ulleri, the trail enters dense forest of oak and rhododendron, which in March and April bursts into red, pink and white blossom. The walking is gentler, passing Banthanti and Nangethanti, streams and waterfalls. In the afternoon, you arrive at Ghorepani, a lively village of lodges on a ridge. Its name means "horse water", from the days when mule caravans stopped here. In the evening, many trekkers walk up to the ridge above the village for sunset over Dhaulagiri.
Day 3: Poon Hill sunrise and Tadapani
This is the highlight. You wake at about 4:30 a.m. and climb the steep path to Poon Hill by head torch, joining a stream of trekkers, about 45–60 minutes. At the top, a viewing tower and tea stall wait. As the sky lightens, the peaks appear one by one: Dhaulagiri, Tukuche Peak, Nilgiri, Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Machhapuchhre and Lamjung Himal. When the sun rises, they glow pink, then gold. After returning for breakfast, you follow a forested ridge to Deurali and descend through more rhododendron forest to Tadapani, with a close view of Machhapuchhre.
Day 4: Ghandruk and back to Pokhara
The final day descends to Ghandruk, one of the largest Gurung villages in Nepal, with stone houses, slate roofs, terraced fields and a small Gurung museum. From here, a jeep returns you to Pokhara by the afternoon.
How difficult is the Poon Hill trek?
Poon Hill is easy to moderate. The altitude is low enough that altitude sickness is rare, and daily walking times are four to six hours. The main challenge is the long stone staircase to Ulleri on day one, and the steep climb up Poon Hill before dawn. Knees can feel the descent on day three and four. Anyone with basic fitness who can walk for several hours with rest stops will manage it. Trekking poles are a great help on the steps. See our guide to the best treks for beginners.
Cost of the Poon Hill trek
| Item | Approximate cost (US$) |
|---|---|
| ACAP + TIMS | About 40 |
| Jeep Pokhara–trailhead and back | 40–90 per vehicle |
| Guide (per day) | 30–40 |
| Porter (per day) | 22–30 |
| Lodges and meals (per day) | 20–30 |
| Poon Hill entry fee | About US$1 |
| Full guided package from Pokhara | 350–600 per person |
Best time for Poon Hill
- March–April: the rhododendron forests are in full bloom, the most beautiful time of year. Some haze in the afternoons.
- October–November: the clearest skies and the best mountain views.
- December–February: cold at Ghorepani (below freezing at night) and sometimes snowy, but clear, quiet and beautiful.
- June–September: monsoon rain, leeches and cloud; views are hit and miss, but the forest is green and the trails are empty.
Tips for the perfect Poon Hill sunrise
- Leave Ghorepani by about 4:45 a.m. to reach the top before first light.
- Wear all your warm layers: it is cold on the hilltop even in spring.
- Bring a head torch, a thermos of tea and some snacks.
- Find a spot away from the crowded viewing tower for photos.
- Stay after sunrise: the light on the mountains is beautiful for another half hour.
- If Poon Hill is crowded, consider the quieter viewpoint of Gurung Hill or Deurali on the ridge towards Tadapani.
Other Poon Hill itineraries
Three days: the fastest version
If you are short of time, you can drive from Pokhara all the way to Ulleri or even further up the road, walk to Ghorepani on the first day, climb Poon Hill at sunrise and walk to Tadapani on the second, and descend to Ghandruk and drive back to Pokhara on the third. It is fast but still enjoyable, and leaves more time for Pokhara or other destinations.
Five days: the relaxed version
For a slower pace, spend the first night at Tikhedhunga, the second at Ghorepani, climb Poon Hill and continue to Tadapani on the third, spend the fourth night in Ghandruk to explore the village, and return to Pokhara on the fifth. This version suits families, older trekkers and photographers who want more time in the villages.
Reverse direction
Some trekkers walk the loop in reverse, starting at Ghandruk and ending with a descent of the Ulleri steps. This makes the first days gentler, as the climb from Ghandruk to Tadapani and Ghorepani is more gradual than the Ulleri staircase, but you descend the steps at the end, which is hard on the knees. Both directions work well; your guide can advise based on your preferences.
Villages and culture along the trail
The Poon Hill trek passes through the homeland of two of Nepal's best-known ethnic groups. The lower villages, such as Tikhedhunga, Ulleri and Banthanti, are mainly Magar, a community with a long tradition of service in the Gurkha regiments of the British and Indian armies. Further east, Ghandruk and the villages around it are Gurung, also famous for their Gurkha soldiers and for their distinctive stone architecture, cooperative community life and cultural traditions. In Ghandruk, visit the Gurung Museum to learn about traditional dress, tools and customs, and you may be invited to try Gurung dress for a photo. Many villages have benefited from the Annapurna Conservation Area Project, which has supported schools, health posts, micro-hydro power and sustainable tourism.
The rhododendron forests
The forests between Ulleri, Ghorepani and Tadapani are among the most extensive rhododendron forests in the world. Nepal's national flower, the laliguras (Rhododendron arboreum), grows here into trees up to 20 m tall, and in spring the hillsides turn red, pink and white. Blooming begins at lower altitudes in late February and moves up the mountains through March and April, peaking around Ghorepani in late March and early April. The forest is also home to birds such as the Himalayan monal, Nepal's colourful national bird, laughing thrushes and sunbirds, and to langur monkeys. Walking through the forest in full bloom, with snow peaks glimpsed between the trees, is one of the great experiences of trekking in Nepal.
Poon Hill for families
Poon Hill is one of the best treks in Nepal for families. The altitude is low, lodges are comfortable, and days are short enough for children. Kids love the stone steps (at least at first), the animals in the villages, the tea stops and the excitement of climbing Poon Hill in the dark. We recommend the five-day version for families with younger children, with an extra night at Ghandruk. Porters can carry young children in special baskets if needed. See our guide to travelling in Nepal with children.
What to pack for Poon Hill
You do not need heavy expedition gear for Poon Hill, but you do need to be prepared for cold mornings. Pack a warm down or synthetic jacket, a fleece, a warm hat and gloves, a waterproof jacket, comfortable broken-in trekking boots, trekking poles, a head torch for the sunrise climb, sunglasses and sunscreen. In spring, a light rain jacket and insect repellent are useful; in winter, bring an extra warm layer and warm socks. A sleeping bag rated to about −5°C is usually sufficient, although lodges provide blankets. See our packing list.
Poon Hill vs other short treks
| Poon Hill | Mardi Himal | Australian Camp | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Days from Pokhara | 3–5 | 4–5 | 1–2 |
| Highest point | 3,210 m | About 4,500 m | 2,100 m |
| Difficulty | Easy–moderate | Moderate | Easy |
| Highlights | Sunrise panorama, rhododendrons, villages | Close views of Machhapuchhre | Easy overnight with mountain views |
| Crowds | Busy | Quieter | Moderate |
For more options, read our guide to the best short treks in Nepal and our Mardi Himal trek guide.
Responsible trekking on a popular trail
Poon Hill is one of the busiest trails in Nepal, and its popularity brings both benefits and pressures. Help keep it beautiful by refilling water bottles at safe drinking water stations instead of buying plastic, carrying out your rubbish, staying on the trail, and not picking rhododendron flowers. Support local lodges and buy handicrafts from villagers. Be patient on the stone steps, where mule trains and porters also travel, and always give way on the mountain side of the trail.
A morning on Poon Hill: what it feels like
Your alarm goes off at 4:30 a.m. in a cold lodge room in Ghorepani. You pull on your thermal layers, fleece and down jacket, grab your head torch and join the line of lights moving up the stone steps behind the village. The air is sharp and quiet, apart from the crunch of boots and quiet conversations in a dozen languages. The climb is steep, and you stop often to catch your breath, looking back at the lights of Ghorepani below and the stars fading above.
After about 45 minutes, you reach the top of Poon Hill, where a small tea stall is already serving hot drinks and a crowd is gathering around the wooden viewing tower. In the east, a pale glow spreads across the sky. To the north-west, the great white mass of Dhaulagiri emerges from the darkness, then Tukuche, Nilgiri, the Annapurna massif and, to the east, the unmistakable fishtail of Machhapuchhre. When the first rays of the sun strike Dhaulagiri's summit, a murmur goes through the crowd. Over the next twenty minutes, the light spreads from peak to peak, turning them pink, then gold, then brilliant white. It is one of those moments that stays with you for years.
By 7 a.m., the crowd begins to thin, and you walk back down to Ghorepani for a hot breakfast of porridge, pancakes or eggs, with the mountains now shining in full sunlight across the valley.
Extending your trek
Poon Hill connects easily to longer treks, so it is a great starting point if you want more. From Tadapani, the trail continues to Chhomrong and up the Modi Khola valley to Annapurna Base Camp, adding about five days. From Ghorepani, a quieter trail climbs to the community lodges of Khopra Danda, facing Dhaulagiri, adding one to two days. You can also descend from Ghorepani to Tatopani and its hot springs on the Kali Gandaki, and from there join the lower Annapurna Circuit. Talk to your guide before you start if you think you might want to extend, as permits and lodge bookings may need adjusting.
Money, Wi-Fi and practicalities
There are no ATMs on the Poon Hill trail, so bring enough Nepali rupees from Pokhara for extras and tips. Most lodges offer Wi-Fi and phone charging for a small fee, and mobile signal is good in most villages. Hot showers are widely available. Safe drinking water stations exist in some villages; otherwise, bring purification tablets or a filter. Your ACAP permit is checked at Birethanti or along the trail, so keep it accessible. Travel insurance covering trekking to at least 3,500 m is required.
Common mistakes on the Poon Hill trek
Because Poon Hill is short and low, some trekkers underestimate it. The most common mistake is starting too fast on the Ulleri steps and arriving at the top exhausted; take it slowly and rest often. Another is not bringing enough warm clothing for the pre-dawn climb, when temperatures can be close to or below freezing even in spring. Some trekkers skip the sunrise because of the early start, which means missing the main reason to come. Others rush the trek into two days by jeep and miss the villages and forests. Finally, many forget sunscreen: the sun is strong even at 3,000 m. With a relaxed pace and the right gear, Poon Hill is a joy.
Photography tips
Poon Hill is a photographer's delight. For the sunrise, bring a tripod if you can, and arrive early to secure a good spot away from the tower. A telephoto lens helps isolate individual peaks such as Dhaulagiri and Machhapuchhre in the morning light, while a wide-angle captures the whole panorama. The rhododendron forests are best photographed in the soft light of early morning or late afternoon, or on misty days when the colours glow. Villages such as Ghandruk and Ulleri are full of everyday life worth photographing, but always ask before you point a camera at someone. Keep spare batteries warm in your pocket on cold mornings.
Why Poon Hill is Nepal's favourite short trek
Poon Hill's enduring popularity is easy to understand. In a few days you get most of what makes trekking in Nepal good: friendly villages, stone steps worn smooth by centuries of feet, forests that flower red in spring, comfortable lodges and one of the most famous mountain sunrises in the world. It is accessible to almost anyone with reasonable fitness, and it is often the trek that inspires people to return to Nepal for bigger adventures. If you have only a few days, there is no better introduction to the Himalaya.
Guides, porters and the ACAP rule
Since 2023, foreign trekkers in the Annapurna Conservation Area must walk with a licensed guide, and on Poon Hill a good guide adds a lot. They know the best lodges in Ghorepani, the quietest viewpoints for sunrise and the stories behind the villages and Gurkha traditions. A porter lets you enjoy the stone steps with just a light daypack, which makes a big difference on the Ulleri climb. Many guides on this route come from the surrounding villages and can introduce you to local families. See our guide to hiring a guide and porter and our advice on the guide rule.
Combining Poon Hill with a Nepal holiday
Poon Hill fits neatly into a one- or two-week Nepal trip. A popular plan is two days of sightseeing in Kathmandu, a flight or drive to Pokhara, a four-day Poon Hill trek, a rest day in Pokhara with paragliding or boating on Phewa Lake, and two nights in Chitwan National Park before returning to Kathmandu. This combination gives you culture, mountains and wildlife in about ten days. Have a look at our Kathmandu, Pokhara and Chitwan tour and our Nepal itinerary guide.
Safety on the Poon Hill trek
Poon Hill is one of the safest treks in Nepal, but a few precautions help. The stone steps can be slippery after rain or frost, so use trekking poles and watch your footing, especially on descents. On the pre-dawn climb, use a head torch and stay on the main path. In winter, snow and ice can make the trail above Ghorepani treacherous; microspikes are useful. Drink purified water to avoid stomach upsets, and wash your hands before meals. Although altitude sickness is rare, tell your guide if you develop a headache, nausea or dizziness. In the monsoon, check for leeches after walking through the forest, and be cautious at stream crossings after heavy rain.
Where to stay in Pokhara before and after
Most Poon Hill trekkers spend at least one night in Pokhara before and after the trek. Lakeside, beside Phewa Lake, has hotels for every budget, from simple guesthouses to boutique resorts, along with restaurants, cafés, gear shops and massage spas that are perfect after the trek. Leave your extra luggage at your hotel while you walk. If you have a free day, watch sunrise from Sarangkot, boat to the Tal Barahi temple or try tandem paragliding. Have a look at our Pokhara travel guide for ideas.
Booking tips
Poon Hill can be booked at short notice most of the year, but in October, November, March and April, book at least a few weeks ahead so your guide can reserve rooms in Ghorepani, which fills up quickly in peak season. Private treks can start on any day that suits you.
Lodges and food
Lodges on the Poon Hill route are among the most comfortable in Nepal, many with hot showers, Wi-Fi and some rooms with attached bathrooms. Ghorepani has dozens of lodges, bakeries and a lively evening atmosphere. Food is classic teahouse fare: dal bhat, noodles, pasta, pizza, Tibetan bread, pancakes and apple pie. Read our guide to teahouse trekking.