For years, the Mardi Himal trek was a local secret. The trail along a narrow forested ridge east of the Annapurna Sanctuary was used mainly by herders until it was officially opened to trekkers around 2012. Since then, it has become one of the most loved short treks in Nepal, and many of our guides name it as their personal favourite. In four or five days from Pokhara, it climbs through mossy rhododendron forest to open grassy ridges beneath the sacred fishtail peak of Machhapuchhre (6,993 m), reaching viewpoints at over 4,000 m with a close-up panorama of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Mardi Himal (5,587 m).
It's quieter than Poon Hill and Annapurna Base Camp, higher and steeper than most short treks, and still doable for fit beginners. Here's how to plan the trek, what each day is like, how hard it really is and how to time the sunrise from the upper ridge.
Quick answer: the Mardi Himal trek takes 4–6 days from Pokhara (about 7 days from Kathmandu), climbs to High Camp (3,580 m) and a dawn hike to the Mardi Himal viewpoint (about 4,200–4,300 m) or Mardi Himal Base Camp (about 4,500 m). It is graded moderate, costs about US$400–700 from Pokhara with a guide, porter, ACAP permit and lodges, and is best from October to December and March to May.
Mardi Himal trek at a glance
| Fact | Details |
|---|---|
| Duration | 4–6 days from Pokhara |
| Start | Kande or Phedi (30–45 min drive from Pokhara) |
| Finish | Siding or Lwang (jeep back to Pokhara) |
| Highest night | High Camp, 3,580 m |
| Highest point | Mardi Himal Base Camp, about 4,500 m (viewpoint about 4,200–4,300 m) |
| Grade | Moderate |
| Permit | ACAP and TIMS |
| Accommodation | Teahouse lodges |
| Best time | October–December, March–May |
Recommended 5-day itinerary from Pokhara
| Day | Route | Altitude | Walking |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Drive to Kande, trek via Australian Camp and Pitam Deurali to Forest Camp | 2,520 m | 5–6 hrs |
| 2 | Trek to Low Camp | 2,970 m | 3–4 hrs |
| 3 | Trek to High Camp via Badal Danda | 3,580 m | 3–4 hrs |
| 4 | Sunrise hike to viewpoint and Base Camp, return to Low Camp or Mardi Himal Camp | about 4,500 m | 8–9 hrs |
| 5 | Descend to Siding, drive to Pokhara | 1,750 m | 4–5 hrs |
Faster versions combine days 2 and 3, reaching High Camp on day two, but the extra night at Low Camp helps acclimatisation and lets you enjoy the forest. Take a look at our Mardi Himal Trek for a complete package from Kathmandu.
The trek, day by day
Day 1: Kande to Forest Camp
A short drive west from Pokhara brings you to Kande, where the trail climbs steeply through fields to Australian Camp, a grassy ridge with a superb view of Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre. After a tea stop, you continue through the village of Pothana and Pitam Deurali, where you enter the Annapurna Conservation Area and your permit is checked. Soon after, you leave the main ABC-bound trail and enter the forest. The path climbs gently through oak, rhododendron and maple, draped in moss and ferns, to Forest Camp (also called Kokar), a clearing with a few lodges in the trees.
Day 2: Forest Camp to Low Camp
The trail continues up the ridge through thick, mossy forest. In spring, rhododendrons bloom overhead in red and pink; in autumn, the air is crisp and clear. Birds such as the Himalayan monal and laughing thrushes are common, and you may spot langur monkeys. After three to four hours, you reach Low Camp, where the forest opens and you get your first close view of Machhapuchhre's twin summits, rising sharply above the ridge. Many trekkers stop here for the night to enjoy sunset and acclimatise.
Day 3: Low Camp to High Camp
Above Low Camp, the forest thins into rhododendron scrub and then open grassland at Badal Danda ("cloud ridge"), where cloud often swirls below you in the afternoon. The views open up as you climb: Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre ahead, and the deep Modi Khola valley below. High Camp (3,580 m) is a cluster of lodges on the ridge, with a sunset view that many trekkers consider one of the best in Nepal.
Day 4: the viewpoint and Base Camp
This is the big day. You leave High Camp at about 4:30 or 5:00 a.m. with a head torch and climb the steep, grassy ridge. The path is narrow in places, with steep drops, and can be icy in the early morning outside summer. After about two hours, you reach the Upper Viewpoint (around 4,200–4,300 m), where the sunrise lights up Machhapuchhre, Mardi Himal and the Annapurnas close ahead. Many trekkers turn back here. Strong walkers continue for another one and a half to two hours along the ridge to Mardi Himal Base Camp (about 4,500 m), beneath the glaciers of Mardi Himal and Machhapuchhre's west face. You then return to High Camp for a late breakfast and descend to Low Camp or Mardi Himal Camp for the night.
Day 5: descent to Siding and Pokhara
The final day descends steeply through forest and terraced fields to the village of Siding, a traditional Gurung village in the Mardi Khola valley, from where a jeep takes you back to Pokhara along a rough road. An alternative route descends via Lwang, known for its tea gardens.
How difficult is the Mardi Himal trek?
We grade Mardi Himal as moderate. The first days through the forest are steady climbs of three to six hours, manageable for anyone with reasonable fitness. The challenge comes on day four: a steep climb of about 700–900 m to the viewpoint or Base Camp before dawn, at an altitude where you will feel short of breath, followed by a long descent. The upper ridge is exposed and can be windy, and after snowfall or frost, the trail can be slippery. Fit beginners manage it well with a guide and trekking poles, and the itinerary can be adjusted by turning back at the lower viewpoint.
Altitude is a consideration because the trek gains height quickly, from about 1,000 m at Kande to over 4,000 m in three or four days. An extra night at Low Camp reduces the risk of altitude sickness. Read our guide to altitude sickness and tell your guide about any headache or nausea.
Cost of the Mardi Himal trek
| Item | Approximate cost (US$) |
|---|---|
| ACAP + TIMS | About 40 |
| Transport Pokhara–Kande and Siding–Pokhara | 40–100 per vehicle |
| Guide (per day) | 30–40 |
| Porter (per day) | 22–30 |
| Lodges and meals (per day) | 25–35 |
| Full guided package from Pokhara | 400–700 per person |
Food and lodge prices are slightly higher at High Camp because supplies are carried up the ridge by porters. See our guide to the cost of trekking in Nepal.
Best time for Mardi Himal
- October–November: the clearest views, crisp days and cold nights at High Camp.
- December: clear and quiet, but cold, with frost and possible snow on the upper ridge.
- March–April: rhododendrons bloom in the forest; views can be hazy by afternoon.
- May: warm, with increasing cloud and pre-monsoon storms.
- January–February: cold, with snow on the upper ridge that may make the Base Camp section unsafe; the viewpoint is often still reachable.
- June–September: monsoon rain, leeches and cloud; views are rare, and the upper ridge can be dangerous in bad weather.
Lodges and food
Teahouses at Forest Camp, Low Camp, Badal Danda and High Camp are simpler than those on the Poon Hill trail, with twin rooms, shared bathrooms and cosy dining rooms. In peak season, High Camp can be crowded, and rooms may be shared, so a guide who books ahead is valuable. Menus offer dal bhat, noodles, fried rice, pasta, potatoes, eggs, pancakes and hot drinks. Hot showers and charging are available at most lodges for a fee, though solar power can be limited on cloudy days. Read our guide to teahouse trekking.
Mardi Himal vs Poon Hill vs Annapurna Base Camp
| Mardi Himal | Poon Hill | Annapurna Base Camp | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Days from Pokhara | 4–6 | 3–5 | 7–10 |
| Highest point | About 4,500 m | 3,210 m | 4,130 m |
| Difficulty | Moderate | Easy–moderate | Moderate |
| Crowds | Quieter | Busy | Busy |
| Highlight | Close views of Machhapuchhre from a ridge | Wide sunrise panorama | Ring of peaks in the Sanctuary |
Choose Poon Hill for an easy, classic short trek with villages; Mardi Himal for a higher, quieter ridge trek with close-up mountain drama; and Annapurna Base Camp for the full immersion in the Sanctuary. Have a look at our guides to Poon Hill and the best short treks in Nepal.
Machhapuchhre: the sacred mountain
Machhapuchhre, meaning "fish tail" in Nepali, gets its name from its twin summits, which resemble the tail of a fish when seen from certain angles. It is considered sacred to Lord Shiva and has never been officially climbed. In 1957, a British expedition led by Wilfrid Noyce came within about 50 m of the summit but turned back out of respect for local beliefs, and the government later closed the mountain to climbing. On the Mardi Himal trek, you see Machhapuchhre from closer than on almost any other trail, its sheer walls and summit ridge filling the sky above High Camp.
Packing for Mardi Himal
Although Mardi Himal is short, it reaches over 4,000 m, and nights at High Camp are cold. Pack a warm down jacket, fleece, thermal layers, a warm hat and gloves, a waterproof and windproof jacket, broken-in trekking boots, trekking poles, a head torch for the pre-dawn climb, sunglasses, sunscreen and a sleeping bag rated to around −10°C in autumn and winter. In winter and early spring, microspikes are useful for the icy upper ridge. In spring and the monsoon, leech socks and insect repellent help in the forest. We cover this in our packing list.
Safety on the upper ridge
The ridge above High Camp is the most exposed part of the trek. In clear weather, the path is straightforward, but in fog, wind or snow, it can be disorienting and dangerous, and there have been accidents when trekkers wandered off the trail. Always walk with your guide, start early, turn back if the weather deteriorates or visibility drops, and do not venture beyond Base Camp. In winter, frost and ice make the steep grassy slopes slippery, so microspikes and poles are important. If anyone in the group feels unwell because of altitude, turn back at the lower viewpoint.
Photography on Mardi Himal
Mardi Himal is one of the most photogenic treks in Nepal. The mossy forest between Forest Camp and Low Camp is at its best in early light or mist. At sunset from Low Camp or High Camp, cloud fills the valleys below and the peaks go pink. The sunrise from the upper viewpoint, with Machhapuchhre catching the first light, is the highlight. Bring a wide-angle lens for the ridge and panoramas, and a zoom for the peaks. Protect your camera from the cold and keep spare batteries in your jacket.
Combining Mardi Himal with other treks
Mardi Himal combines well with other Annapurna treks. From Siding, you can walk or drive to Pokhara, or cross to Landruk and Jhinu to join the Annapurna Base Camp trail. Some trekkers start with Poon Hill, cross via Tadapani and Landruk and finish with Mardi Himal, making a varied ten-day circuit. Others add a few days in Pokhara or a Chitwan safari. Our team can design a combination that suits your time and fitness.
A night at High Camp
For many trekkers, the evening at High Camp is as good as the sunrise. You arrive in the early afternoon, often as cloud rises from the valleys below, and settle into a simple lodge on the ridge. As the afternoon passes, the clouds sometimes part suddenly to reveal Machhapuchhre towering directly above you, its snow and rock glowing in the late light, and everyone rushes outside with cameras. When the sun sets, the peaks turn pink and then grey, the temperature drops quickly, and the stars come out with a brilliance you rarely see at lower altitudes.
Inside the dining room, trekkers gather around the stove, sharing stories and plans for the morning. Dinner is simple: dal bhat, noodle soup or fried potatoes, followed by hot tea or ginger lemon honey. Most people go to bed early, knowing the alarm will ring at 4:30. The night is cold and the air is thin, and many trekkers sleep lightly, but the excitement of the dawn climb makes it easy to get up.
Who is Mardi Himal for?
Mardi Himal suits trekkers who want a short but adventurous trek with big mountain views, and who prefer quieter trails to the busy routes. It suits people with a week in Nepal who want more than Poon Hill, photographers, and fit beginners who don't mind a steep climb and some altitude. It is less suitable for young children, trekkers with a strong fear of heights (the upper ridge is exposed in places) or anyone uncomfortable at over 4,000 m. For an easier alternative, consider Poon Hill or Khopra Danda.
The changing Mardi Himal trail
When the Mardi Himal route opened to trekkers, there were only a few basic huts on the ridge, and many trekkers camped. Today, lodges operate at Forest Camp, Rest Camp, Low Camp, Badal Danda, High Camp and Mardi Himal Camp, and the trail has become well known. It is still much quieter than Poon Hill or Annapurna Base Camp, but in October and April, lodges at High Camp can fill up. New jeep roads now reach lower villages such as Siding and Lwang, making the start and end of the trek quicker. As the trek grows in popularity, respecting the fragile high pastures and forest, carrying out waste and supporting local lodges becomes more important.
Money and practicalities
There are no ATMs on the Mardi Himal trail, so bring cash from Pokhara for extras and tips. Mobile coverage is available in many places, though patchy on the ridge, and some lodges offer Wi-Fi. Drinking water is available at lodges; bring purification tablets or a filter. Your ACAP permit is checked at Pitam Deurali or along the trail. Travel insurance covering trekking up to at least 4,500 m and helicopter evacuation is essential; see our guide to trekking insurance.
Common questions
Can I do Mardi Himal in three days? A very fast version is possible by driving to Kande and walking to Low Camp on the first day, High Camp and the viewpoint on the second, and descending on the third, but it is tiring and increases altitude risk. Is Base Camp worth the extra effort? On a clear day, yes: you're right under Mardi Himal's glaciers and Machhapuchhre's west face, and far fewer people go there. Are there dogs on the trail? Friendly lodge dogs often accompany trekkers up the ridge, a charming feature of the route. Can I bring children? Older, fit teenagers can manage it with a slow itinerary.
Wildlife and plants on the ridge
The Mardi Himal ridge passes through several ecological zones in just a few days. The lower forest of Schima, chestnut and oak gives way to rhododendron, magnolia and hemlock, heavy with moss, lichens and epiphytic orchids. Above Low Camp, the vegetation shrinks to dwarf rhododendron and juniper, and above High Camp, alpine grassland, where edelweiss, gentians and primulas bloom in summer. Birdlife is rich: look for the iridescent Himalayan monal, Nepal's national bird, as well as kalij pheasants, laughing thrushes, sunbirds and, soaring on the thermals above the ridge, lammergeiers and Himalayan griffon vultures. Langur monkeys and, rarely, barking deer and Himalayan tahr may be seen. The area is part of the Annapurna Conservation Area, so stay on the trail and do not disturb wildlife.
Guides and porters on Mardi Himal
A licensed guide is required on Mardi Himal as part of the Annapurna Conservation Area, and it is especially valuable on the upper ridge, where finding the trail in fog can be difficult. Guides also book rooms at High Camp in busy seasons and know how conditions change on the ridge. A porter lets you carry a light daypack, which makes the steep climbs much easier. Many guides and porters on this route come from villages in the Kaski district below the ridge. Read our advice on hiring a guide and porter.
Tips from our guides
- "Spend the night at Low Camp, not just High Camp. Your body will thank you on the climb to the viewpoint."
- "Leave High Camp early. The best light is at sunrise, and clouds often cover the peaks by 9 a.m."
- "Bring gloves and a warm hat even in spring. The wind on the ridge is cold."
- "Do not go beyond the viewpoint if the weather looks bad. The ridge is no place to be in fog or snow."
- "Take your time in the forest. It is one of the most beautiful forests in Nepal."
- "Book rooms ahead in October. High Camp fills up fast."
Booking and planning
Mardi Himal can be booked at short notice for much of the year, but in October, November and April, book a few weeks ahead so your guide can secure rooms. Most itineraries start and end in Pokhara, so plan at least one night there before and after. The trek combines easily with a few days in Kathmandu and a safari in Chitwan for a well-rounded week or ten days in Nepal. See our Nepal itinerary guide for ideas.
Mardi Himal in a few words
Mardi Himal is the trek for people who want to feel close to the big mountains without spending two weeks walking. It combines a mossy, silent forest, a grassy ridge above the clouds and a sunrise beneath one of the most beautiful peaks on Earth, all within a few hours of Pokhara.
Responsible trekking on Mardi Himal
The high pastures of the Mardi Himal ridge are fragile. Stay on the main trail to avoid eroding the grassy slopes, carry out plastic and batteries, refill water bottles instead of buying new ones, and support the families who run the ridge lodges by eating where you sleep.
Who Mardi Himal suits best
The Mardi Himal trek offers some of the best mountain scenery of any short trek in Nepal. Mossy forest, open ridges, quiet lodges and sunrise under Machhapuchhre: if you want a bit more than Poon Hill but only have a week, this is the one. Come prepared for cold mornings and a steep final climb, and you will be rewarded with views you will never forget.