For one night each year, Pashupatinath becomes the centre of the Hindu world. Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims, including sadhus from across South Asia, gather to honour Shiva on Maha Shivaratri.
Quick answer: Maha Shivaratri falls in February or March, on the night before the new moon in the month of Falgun. Pilgrims queue for hours to worship at Pashupatinath, sadhus gather around fires, and many people stay up all night. It is a public holiday.
What happens
- Long queues of devotees to the main temple from before dawn.
- Sadhus with ash-covered bodies camp around the temple complex.
- Fires are lit across Kathmandu to keep warm through the night.
- Children sometimes set up playful "toll" ropes to collect small coins.
Tips for visitors
- Expect very large crowds and traffic around Pashupatinath.
- Non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple; view the festivities from the wider complex.
- Keep valuables secure and stay with your group.
- Ask before photographing sadhus; many expect a donation.
See our Pashupatinath guide and festivals of Nepal.
Maha Shivaratri at a glance
| Detail | |
|---|---|
| Meaning | "The great night of Shiva" |
| When | The 14th night of the dark fortnight of Falgun, usually February or March |
| Main venue | Pashupatinath, Kathmandu |
| Pilgrims | Hundreds of thousands, from Nepal and India |
| Also | Nepal Army Day, with a parade in Kathmandu |
| Public holiday | Yes |
The legends of Shivaratri
Several stories explain the festival. One says that this is the night Shiva performed the tandava, the cosmic dance of creation and destruction. Another says it marks the wedding of Shiva and Parvati. A popular tale tells of a hunter who, lost in the forest at night, climbed a bael tree to escape wild animals and, unable to sleep, dropped bael leaves one by one onto a Shiva lingam below, unknowingly worshipping Shiva all night, and was granted liberation. This is why devotees stay awake and offer bael leaves to Shiva on this night. Another legend links the festival to Shiva drinking the poison churned from the cosmic ocean to save the world.
The sadhus
In the days before Shivaratri, thousands of sadhus, Hindu ascetics, arrive at Pashupatinath from across Nepal and India, many walking for weeks. They camp in the forests and courtyards around the temple, sitting beside fires (dhuni), meditating, chanting and receiving visitors. Some are covered in ash, with long dreadlocks and few or no clothes; others wear saffron robes. Some belong to ascetic orders such as the Naga sadhus. The government traditionally provides them with food and shelter during the festival. Visitors can watch respectfully, but should ask before taking photos, and expect to give a small donation. Cannabis, considered sacred to Shiva, is traditionally smoked by some sadhus during the festival, though it is illegal in Nepal for others. See visiting Pashupatinath.
A day and night at Pashupatinath
| Time | What happens |
|---|---|
| Before dawn | Queues of devotees begin to form, often stretching for kilometres |
| Morning | Devotees bathe in the Bagmati and wait to enter the temple to worship Shiva |
| Midday | Sadhus receive visitors around their fires; the complex fills with pilgrims and music |
| Evening | The aarati ceremony by the river; fires are lit across Kathmandu |
| Night | Devotees stay awake, singing devotional songs (bhajans), with prayers through the four watches of the night |
Shivaratri across Nepal
While Pashupatinath is the centre, Shivaratri is celebrated at Shiva temples throughout Nepal: at Halesi Mahadev in the east, at Doleshwor Mahadev near Bhaktapur, at Kumbheshwar in Patan, and at countless local shrines. In villages, people light bonfires, fast and gather at temples. Children set up ropes across streets to stop vehicles and collect small donations for bonfire wood, a playful tradition. In the Kathmandu Valley, the festival marks the end of the coldest part of winter. See Halesi Mahadev.
Nepal Army Day
Maha Shivaratri is also celebrated as Nepal Army Day, with a parade at Tundikhel in central Kathmandu, attended by government leaders. The tradition dates back to the time of the Shah kings. Roads around Tundikhel may be closed in the morning.
Practical tips in more detail
- Arrive very early, or visit on the days before Shivaratri, when sadhus are already present but crowds are smaller.
- Expect road closures and heavy traffic around Pashupatinath; walk the last part.
- Non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple; enjoy the atmosphere around the complex and the east bank.
- Dress modestly and warmly; nights in February and March are cold.
- Carry small notes for donations, and keep valuables secure in the crowds.
- Be cautious of smoke from fires and stay with your group.
Fasting and worship
Many devotees fast on Shivaratri, eating only fruit and milk, or nothing at all, until the next morning. They visit Shiva temples to offer milk, water, bael leaves, flowers, fruit and sweets to the lingam, and chant "Om Namah Shivaya". Some stay awake all night, praying through the four watches (prahar) of the night. In homes, families make offerings at their own shrines and gather to sing devotional songs.
Photography tips
Shivaratri is one of the most photogenic festivals in Nepal, with sadhus, fires, lamps and crowds. Respect is essential: ask before photographing sadhus and devotees, give a small donation where expected, and never photograph inside the temple or at the cremation ghats near mourners. The best light is early morning and late afternoon. Keep your gear secure in the crowds. See photography tips.
Combining Shivaratri with your trip
Maha Shivaratri falls in February or March, when the Kathmandu Valley is dry and clear and the spring trekking season is beginning. It combines well with Holi, which often falls a couple of weeks later, and with treks such as Poon Hill, where rhododendrons start to bloom. See Holi and Nepal in February.
Shiva in Nepal
Shiva holds a special place in Nepal, where he is honoured as Pashupati, "lord of the animals" and protector of the nation. Pashupatinath has been a centre of Shiva worship for well over a thousand years, and the Shah kings considered themselves devotees of Pashupati. Across Nepal, Shiva is worshipped in many forms: as the ascetic yogi in the mountains, at Gosainkunda lake, which legend says he created with his trident; as Mahadev in village shrines; and as fierce Bhairav in the Kathmandu Valley. See Hindu gods and Gosainkunda.
Etiquette reminders
- Remove shoes where devotees do, and dress modestly.
- Don't touch offerings, sadhus' belongings or sacred fires.
- Don't block queues or walk through prayer areas.
- Be patient: crowds are enormous, and the atmosphere is intensely devotional.
What to bring
- Warm layers: February and March nights in Kathmandu are cold.
- Comfortable shoes you can remove easily.
- Small notes for donations and food stalls.
- Water and snacks, as queues and crowds are long.
- A scarf or mask for the smoke from fires.