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Dhaulagiri Expedition

The Dhaulagiri I expedition is a full-service climb of the 8,167 m peak by the north-east ridge. The seventh-highest mountain in the world towers above the Kali Gandaki gorge. A Swiss-Austrian team made the first ascent in 1960.

Our 45-day expedition includes the climbing permit and royalty, an experienced climbing Sherpa for every climber on summit day, base camp and high camp services, supplemental oxygen, mask and regulator, and all logistics from Kathmandu.

CountryNepal
Duration45 Days
DifficultyVery strenuous, technical
ActivityMountaineering expedition
Max. Altitude8,167 m (summit of Dhaulagiri I)
Best SeasonSpring (Apr–May) and autumn (Sep–Oct)
AccommodationHotel in Kathmandu, lodges on the approach, tents at base camp and high camps
MealsAll meals during the expedition; breakfast in Kathmandu
Group size1–12 climbers

Trip highlights

  • Summit of Dhaulagiri I, 8,167 m
  • The north-east ridge
  • Experienced climbing Sherpas
  • Full base camp and high camp services
  • Permits, royalty and logistics handled

Dhaulagiri Expedition overview

Quick answer: a 45-day Dhaulagiri I expedition by the north-east ridge, from US$22,900 per climber, including the permit and royalty, climbing Sherpa support, base camp and high camp services and supplemental oxygen, mask and regulator.

This expedition is for experienced mountaineers. See our guide to expeditions in Nepal for requirements, permits and how to prepare.

At a glance

FactDetails
Summit8,167 m
Routenorth-east ridge
Duration45 days from Kathmandu
Base campBase camp, about 4,700 m
High campsCamp 1 (about 5,800 m), Camp 2 (about 6,400 m), Camp 3 (about 7,200 m)
RoyaltyIncluded
HelicopterTo and from base camp (included)
CostFrom US$22,900 per climber

Day-by-day itinerary

Day1
Airport pick-up and transfer to your hotel. Welcome dinner with the expedition team.
1,400 m Dinner Hotel
Day2–3
Equipment check, expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism and final shopping in Thamel.
1,400 m Breakfast Hotel Preparation
Day4
Short flight to Pokhara.
820 m Breakfast Hotel Flight
Day5
Drive up the Kali Gandaki to Marpha.
2,670 m Breakfast, lunch, dinner Lodge Drive
Day6–7
Acclimatisation hikes around Marpha and Jomsom.
4–6 hours 3,500 m Breakfast, lunch, dinner Lodge Acclimatisation
Day8
Short helicopter flight to Dhaulagiri Base Camp.
4,700 m All meals Tent Flight
Day9–40
Rotations to Camps 1–3 on the north-east ridge and the summit push.
8,167 m All meals Tents Climbing
Day41
Fly out from base camp.
820 m Breakfast Hotel Flight
Day42
Flight back to Kathmandu.
1,400 m Breakfast Hotel Flight
Day43–44
Contingency days for weather or flight delays; otherwise free time and a celebration dinner.
1,400 m Breakfast Hotel Rest
Day45
Transfer to the airport for your onward flight.
1,400 m Breakfast

What’s included

Included

  • Airport transfers and hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Expedition permit and government royalty
  • Liaison officer, garbage deposit and national park or conservation fees
  • Domestic flights or road transport to and from the mountain
  • Lodges and meals on the approach trek
  • Base camp: individual tent, dining and kitchen tents, cook and kitchen team, all meals
  • Experienced climbing Sherpa (1:1 on summit day)
  • High-altitude tents, food and fuel at high camps
  • Supplemental oxygen, mask and regulator
  • Contribution to fixed ropes on the route
  • Satellite phone and radios for communication
  • Insurance for Nepali staff
  • All government and local taxes

Not included

  • International flights and Nepal visa
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Climbing and travel insurance including helicopter evacuation (mandatory)
  • Summit bonus for climbing Sherpas
  • Extra oxygen beyond the allowance
  • Helicopter flights unless stated
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • Personal expenses and tips

Useful info

Experience

You should have climbed at least one 7,000 m peak, or several high 6,000 m peaks, and be confident with crampons, ice axe, fixed ropes, jumar and abseiling. Send us your climbing CV when you enquire.

Fitness

Train for 6–12 months with long days carrying a pack, uphill endurance work and strength training.

Insurance

Insurance covering climbing to the summit altitude and helicopter evacuation is mandatory.

Rules

Since September 2025, Nepal does not allow solo expeditions on peaks over 8,000 m; every climber is accompanied by a licensed guide or climbing Sherpa.

Packing list

  • Down climbing suit and expedition down jacket
  • High-altitude double boots
  • Crampons, ice axe, harness, jumar and descender
  • Expedition sleeping bag rated to about –35°C
  • Expedition mitts and gloves
  • Glacier glasses and goggles
  • Helmet

Add-ons & trip options

Extra oxygen bottle (each)US$650
Helicopter from base camp to Kathmandu (per seat, shared)US$1,500

Choose add-ons and quantities on the booking form.

More options, quoted on request:

  • Private expedition with your own Sherpa team.
  • Extra oxygen and a personal oxygen plan.
  • Helicopter return from base camp.

Frequently asked questions

8,167 m.

45 days from Kathmandu.

From US$22,900 per climber, including the permit and royalty.

At least one 7,000 m peak or several high 6,000 m peaks, and solid technical skills.

By a short helicopter flight after acclimatising in Mustang, included in the price.