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Baruntse Expedition

The Baruntse expedition is a full-service climb of the 7,129 m peak by the south-east ridge. Baruntse rises in the remote Hongu valley between Everest and Makalu. A New Zealand team made the first ascent in 1954.

Our 35-day expedition includes the climbing permit and royalty, an experienced climbing Sherpa for every climber on summit day, base camp and high camp services, emergency oxygen, mask and regulator, and all logistics from Kathmandu.

CountryNepal
Duration35 Days
DifficultyStrenuous, technical
ActivityMountaineering expedition
Max. Altitude7,129 m (summit of Baruntse)
Best SeasonSpring (Apr–May) and autumn (Sep–Oct)
AccommodationHotel in Kathmandu, lodges on the approach, tents at base camp and high camps
MealsAll meals during the expedition; breakfast in Kathmandu
Group size1–12 climbers

Trip highlights

  • Summit of Baruntse, 7,129 m
  • The south-east ridge
  • Experienced climbing Sherpas
  • Full base camp and high camp services
  • Permits, royalty and logistics handled

Baruntse Expedition overview

Quick answer: a 35-day Baruntse expedition by the south-east ridge, from US$10,900 per climber, including the permit and royalty, climbing Sherpa support, base camp and high camp services and emergency oxygen, mask and regulator.

This expedition is for experienced mountaineers. See our guide to expeditions in Nepal for requirements, permits and how to prepare.

At a glance

FactDetails
Summit7,129 m
Routesouth-east ridge
Duration35 days from Kathmandu
Base campBase camp, about 5,450 m
High campsCamp 1 (about 6,100 m) and a high camp on the south-east ridge
PermitExpedition permit and Makalu Barun National Park fees (included)
CostFrom US$10,900 per climber

Day-by-day itinerary

Day1
Airport pick-up and transfer to your hotel. Welcome dinner with the expedition team.
1,400 m Dinner Hotel
Day2
Equipment check, expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism and final shopping in Thamel.
1,400 m Breakfast Hotel Preparation
Day3
Flight to Lukla and walk to the first village.
3–4 hours 2,860 m Breakfast, lunch, dinner Lodge Trek
Day4–9
Via Chutanga, Kothe and Thangnak to Khare, with acclimatisation.
5–7 hours a day 5,000 m Breakfast, lunch, dinner Lodges Trek
Day10–12
Cross the Mera La into the Hongu valley and on to Baruntse Base Camp.
6–7 hours a day 5,450 m All meals Tents Trek
Day13–28
Rotations to Camp 1 and the high camp, and the summit push.
7,129 m All meals Tents Climbing
Day29–33
Cross back over the Mera La and descend the Hinku valley to Lukla.
6–7 hours a day 2,860 m Breakfast, lunch, dinner Lodges Trek
Day34
Flight back to Kathmandu.
1,400 m Breakfast Hotel Flight
Day35
Transfer to the airport for your onward flight.
1,400 m Breakfast

What’s included

Included

  • Airport transfers and hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Expedition permit and government royalty
  • Liaison officer, garbage deposit and national park or conservation fees
  • Domestic flights or road transport to and from the mountain
  • Lodges and meals on the approach trek
  • Base camp: individual tent, dining and kitchen tents, cook and kitchen team, all meals
  • Experienced climbing Sherpa (1:1 on summit day)
  • High-altitude tents, food and fuel at high camps
  • Emergency oxygen, mask and regulator
  • Contribution to fixed ropes on the route
  • Satellite phone and radios for communication
  • Insurance for Nepali staff
  • All government and local taxes

Not included

  • International flights and Nepal visa
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Climbing and travel insurance including helicopter evacuation (mandatory)
  • Summit bonus for climbing Sherpas
  • Extra oxygen beyond the allowance
  • Helicopter flights unless stated
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • Personal expenses and tips

Useful info

Experience

You should have climbed at least one or two 6,000 m trekking peaks and be confident with crampons, ice axe, fixed ropes, jumar and abseiling.

Fitness

Train for at least 4–6 months with long days carrying a pack and uphill endurance work.

Insurance

Insurance covering climbing to the summit altitude and helicopter evacuation is mandatory.

Packing list

  • Down climbing suit and expedition down jacket
  • High-altitude double boots
  • Crampons, ice axe, harness, jumar and descender
  • Expedition sleeping bag rated to about –35°C
  • Expedition mitts and gloves
  • Glacier glasses and goggles
  • Helmet

Add-ons & trip options

Helicopter from base camp to Kathmandu (per seat, shared)US$1,200

Choose add-ons and quantities on the booking form.

More options, quoted on request:

  • Private expedition with your own Sherpa team.
  • Extra oxygen and a personal oxygen plan.
  • Helicopter return from base camp.

Frequently asked questions

7,129 m.

35 days from Kathmandu.

From US$10,900 per climber, including the permit and royalty.

One or two 6,000 m trekking peaks and solid rope skills.

Yes, Mera Peak (6,476 m) can be added for acclimatisation; ask us.