# Mustang Region Treks

## Mustang region treks: the last forbidden kingdom

The **Mustang region** lies north of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, in the rain shadow of the Himalaya. Its landscape of wind-carved cliffs, red and ochre canyons, cave dwellings and whitewashed villages looks more like Tibet than the rest of Nepal. **Upper Mustang**, the former Kingdom of Lo, was closed to foreigners until 1992 and still keeps its Tibetan Buddhist culture, centred on the walled capital of **Lo Manthang**.

Our **Upper Mustang trek** follows the Kali Gandaki valley from Jomsom and Kagbeni to Lo Manthang, with side trips to ancient monasteries and cave complexes. In **Lower Mustang**, the Jomsom–Muktinath trek visits the sacred temple of **Muktinath** and the apple-growing Thakali village of Marpha. Because Mustang receives little rain, it is one of the few places in Nepal where you can trek during the monsoon.

- **Start point:** Jomsom, reached by flight or road from Pokhara
- **Permits:** Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit and ACAP
- **Best time:** March–November, including the monsoon

## Trips
- [Upper Mustang Trek](https://himalayanhiking.com/upper-mustang-trek.md): 14 days, Moderate, max About 4,200 m / 13,780 ft, from US$2,390. The Upper Mustang trek is a 14-day guided trek to the former Kingdom of Lo, a high desert behind the Himalaya where Tibetan Buddhist culture has survived almost...
- [Upper Mustang Jeep Tour to Lo Manthang](https://himalayanhiking.com/upper-mustang-jeep-tour.md): 9 days, Easy to moderate, max 3,840 m / 12,598 ft (Lo Manthang), passes up to about 4,000 m, from US$1,690. The Upper Mustang jeep tour takes you by 4WD to Lo Manthang (3,840 m), the medieval walled capital of the former Kingdom of Lo, known as the "Forbidden Kingdom"...

## Mustang trekking guide: Upper Mustang, Lo Manthang and Muktinath

North of the great Himalayan wall formed by Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas lies a land that feels like another country. **Mustang** is a high, dry region of wind-sculpted cliffs, deep canyons in shades of red, ochre and grey, cave dwellings carved high into rock faces, and fortified villages of whitewashed houses surrounded by barley fields and poplar trees. Its northern half, **Upper Mustang**, was once the independent Kingdom of Lo, and its culture, language and architecture remain closely linked to Tibet.

This guide covers everything you need to know about **trekking in Mustang**: the history of the kingdom, the Upper Mustang trek to Lo Manthang, the Jomsom–Muktinath trek in Lower Mustang, a typical itinerary, permits, the best seasons including the monsoon, difficulty, accommodation, the Tiji festival and practical tips. Our Kathmandu team put it together.

## The Kingdom of Lo: a short history

For centuries, Mustang lay on one of the main trade routes between Tibet and the Indian plains. Caravans of yaks, mules and goats carried salt and wool south and brought grain, sugar and other goods north along the Kali Gandaki river, one of the deepest gorges in the world. The Kingdom of Lo was founded in the 14th century by Ame Pal, and its walled capital, **Lo Manthang**, grew rich on this trade.

Mustang became part of Nepal in the 18th century but kept its own king, known as the Raja or Gyalpo of Lo, until the monarchy was formally abolished in 2008. Because of its sensitive position on the Tibetan border, Upper Mustang was closed to foreigners until 1992. Even today, access is controlled through a restricted area permit, which has helped protect its fragile culture and environment.

The region is also famous for its **sky caves**: thousands of man-made caves dug into the cliffs, some thousands of years old. Archaeologists have found burial sites, manuscripts and Buddhist wall paintings inside them, and some caves are still used as meditation retreats and storerooms.

## Upper Mustang and Lower Mustang

The Mustang district is usually divided into two parts. **Lower Mustang** stretches from the Kali Gandaki gorge near Ghasa up through the Thakali villages of Tukuche and Marpha to **Jomsom**, the district headquarters, and on to **Kagbeni** and the pilgrimage town of **Muktinath**. It lies inside the Annapurna Conservation Area and needs only the standard ACAP permit.

**Upper Mustang** begins north of Kagbeni, where a checkpoint marks the start of the restricted area. From here, the trail climbs through eroded red cliffs and over high passes to the villages of Chele, Syangboche, Ghami, Tsarang and finally Lo Manthang, close to the Tibetan border.

## Highlights of the Upper Mustang trek

### Lo Manthang

The walled city of **Lo Manthang** (about 3,840 m) is the heart of Upper Mustang. Inside its earthen walls, narrow lanes lead between whitewashed houses to the former royal palace and three great monasteries: **Jampa Lhakhang**, **Thubchen Gompa** and **Chodey Gompa**. The first two, dating from the 15th century, contain some of the finest Buddhist wall paintings in the Himalaya, carefully restored in recent decades. Spend at least a full day exploring the city and the surrounding valleys.

### Monasteries and caves

Around Lo Manthang, day trips on foot, by horse or by jeep visit the cave complex of **Chhoser**, where multi-storey cave dwellings can be explored, the monastery of **Namgyal Gompa** on a ridge above the plain, and the villages of Tingkhar and Kimling. On the return route, many itineraries visit **Lo Gekar (Ghar Gompa)**, one of the oldest monasteries in Nepal, associated with the teacher Guru Rinpoche, and the **Dhakmar** cliffs, whose deep red colour is linked in local legend to a demon slain by Guru Rinpoche.

### Tsarang

**Tsarang**, the second-largest village in Upper Mustang, has a large monastery and an old palace of the kings of Lo. Its fields and chortens against the bare, colourful hills make it one of the most photogenic stops on the trek.

### Kagbeni

The medieval village of **Kagbeni** (about 2,810 m), at the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and Jhong rivers, is the gateway to Upper Mustang. Its maze of narrow alleys, tunnels and mud-brick houses surrounds an old red monastery, and it is a fascinating place to spend a night on the way in or out.

## Muktinath and the Jomsom trek

**Muktinath** (about 3,710–3,800 m) is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Nepal. Hindus worship Lord Vishnu here and bathe under 108 water spouts shaped like bulls' heads, believing the waters bring liberation (*mukti*). Buddhists call the site **Chumig Gyatsa**, "Hundred Waters", and associate it with Guru Rinpoche. A small shrine shelters a natural gas flame burning above a spring, an unusual combination of fire and water that adds to its sacred status.

The **Jomsom–Muktinath trek** is a short, easy route in Lower Mustang. From Jomsom, you walk up the wide Kali Gandaki valley to Kagbeni and Muktinath, then return through Lubra or Jharkot. Continuing south, the old trade route passes the Thakali villages of **Marpha**, famous for its apples, apple brandy and neat stone lanes, and **Tukuche**, a former salt-trading centre. The trek takes three to six days depending on where you start and finish, and it can be extended through the gorge to Tatopani and Ghorepani.

## Upper Mustang trek: a typical itinerary

Itineraries can be adjusted, and some sections can be driven because a road now runs through the region. This is a typical trekking itinerary using quieter footpaths; altitudes are approximate.

DayRouteOvernight altitude1Fly or drive Kathmandu to Pokhara820 m2Fly Pokhara to Jomsom, trek to Kagbeni2,810 m3Kagbeni to Chele, entering Upper Mustang3,050 m4Chele to Syangboche over high ridges3,800 m5Syangboche to Ghami3,520 m6Ghami to Tsarang past the longest mani wall in Mustang3,560 m7Tsarang to Lo Manthang3,840 m8Explore Lo Manthang and Chhoser caves or Namgyal Gompa3,840 m9Lo Manthang to Dhakmar via Lo Gekar (Ghar Gompa)3,820 m10Dhakmar to Ghami or Syangboche3,520–3,800 m11Return to Chele or Chhuksang3,050 m12Walk or drive to Jomsom2,720 m13Fly Jomsom to Pokhara820 mA popular variation returns along the eastern side of the valley via the remote village of Yara and the cliff monastery of Luri Gompa, which has very old wall paintings. We will suggest the best route for your dates and interests.

## The Tiji Festival

The **Tiji Festival** is the most famous event in Upper Mustang. Held over three days in Lo Manthang, usually in May, it celebrates the victory of the deity Dorje Jono over a demon who brought drought and disaster to the land. Monks from Chodey Gompa perform elaborate masked dances in the main square, accompanied by long horns, drums and cymbals, while villagers in their finest clothes gather to watch. The dates follow the Tibetan lunar calendar and change every year. Lodges in Lo Manthang fill up quickly, so festival treks should be booked well in advance.

## Best time to trek in Mustang

Mustang's weather is very different from the rest of Nepal. Because it lies in the **rain shadow** of the Himalaya, it receives little rainfall even during the summer monsoon, and the trekking season runs from March to November.

- **Spring (March–May):** mild days, blossoming fruit trees in Lower Mustang, and the Tiji festival in May.
- **Monsoon (June–August):** one of the best times for Upper Mustang, with green barley fields and few other trekkers. Flights between Pokhara and Jomsom can be delayed by weather further south, so allow spare days.
- **Autumn (September–November):** clear skies, harvest time in the villages and excellent views of Nilgiri, Dhaulagiri and Annapurna from Lower Mustang.
- **Winter (December–February):** very cold, with snow possible. Many residents of Lo Manthang move south for the winter and some lodges close, so Upper Mustang is not recommended.

Strong winds are a feature of the Kali Gandaki valley throughout the year, usually rising in the late morning and blowing hard in the afternoon. Treks start early to make the most of calm mornings.

## Permits for Mustang

For **Upper Mustang** you need an **Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit**, valid for a set number of days with extra fees for additional days, plus the **Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)**. Restricted area permits are issued only through a registered trekking agency to groups of at least two trekkers, who must be accompanied by a licensed guide.

**Lower Mustang**, including Jomsom, Kagbeni and Muktinath, needs only the ACAP. Himalayan Hiking arranges all permits for your trek and confirms the latest regulations and fees when you book.

## Difficulty and altitude

The Upper Mustang trek is graded **moderate**. The trail has no technical sections, and the highest points, on the passes between villages, reach around 4,000–4,200 m. Most nights are spent between 3,000 and 3,900 m, which is high enough to require sensible acclimatisation, so we build the ascent gradually from Jomsom.

The main challenges are the dry climate, strong winds, dust and sun. Some days are long, with several climbs and descents across ridges and dry riverbeds. Good fitness, sun protection, a buff for dust and plenty of water make the trek much more comfortable. The Jomsom–Muktinath trek is easier, but Muktinath's altitude of around 3,800 m still means walking slowly and watching for symptoms of altitude sickness.

## Accommodation and food

Upper Mustang is now a **teahouse trek**, with family-run lodges in every overnight village. Rooms are simple but clean, usually with twin beds and shared bathrooms, and many lodges have solar-heated showers. Lodges in Lo Manthang are more comfortable, and several have attached bathrooms.

Food includes dal bhat, Tibetan bread, noodles, fried rice, potatoes, soups and pancakes, with local specialities such as buckwheat bread and *tsampa* (roasted barley flour). In Lower Mustang, Thakali dal bhat and Marpha apple pie are highlights. There are no ATMs in Upper Mustang, and Jomsom's machines are not always reliable, so bring enough cash from Pokhara or Kathmandu. Mobile coverage exists in many villages, but can be patchy between them.

## Getting to Mustang

Most treks start with a flight from Pokhara to **Jomsom**, 20 minutes between Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas. Flights operate only in the morning because of strong afternoon winds and can be delayed by cloud. The alternative is a long drive of around eight to ten hours along the Kali Gandaki road from Pokhara, which passes through the deep gorge and is sometimes affected by landslides during the monsoon.

A road now continues north through Upper Mustang to Lo Manthang, making **jeep tours** possible for travellers who cannot trek. A combination of trekking and jeep sections is a good option for those with limited time, although the footpaths away from the road give a much better experience.

## Mustang by jeep, motorbike or horse

If you have limited time or prefer not to walk long distances, Mustang can also be explored by **jeep**. A Lo Manthang jeep tour from Jomsom takes around a week from Pokhara and visits the main villages and monasteries. Motorbike tours along the Kali Gandaki and into Upper Mustang are popular with experienced riders. Around Lo Manthang, you can hire horses for day trips to caves and monasteries, the way locals have always got around.

## What to pack for Mustang

- Layers for cold mornings and evenings and warm, sunny days.
- A windproof jacket and a buff or scarf for wind and dust.
- Sunglasses, high-factor sunscreen, lip balm and a wide-brimmed hat; the high-altitude sun is intense.
- Comfortable trekking boots and trekking poles for steep, loose descents.
- A warm sleeping bag for the colder months.
- Moisturiser and eye drops for the dry climate.
- Water bottles and purification tablets or a filter.
- A head torch for exploring monasteries and caves, some of which are dark inside.

## Culture and etiquette in Mustang

The people of Upper Mustang, known as the **Lobas**, follow Tibetan Buddhism and speak a Tibetan dialect. Walk clockwise around chortens, mani walls and monasteries, remove your hat and shoes before entering temples, and ask permission before taking photographs, especially inside monasteries, where photography is often not allowed. A small donation to monastery restoration funds is appreciated. In Lo Manthang and other villages, dress modestly and respect people's privacy in their homes and fields.

## Responsible trekking in Mustang

Mustang's desert environment and ancient monuments are fragile. Water is scarce, so use it carefully, and avoid buying bottled water by using purification. Carry out your non-biodegradable rubbish, never remove objects from caves or monasteries, and stay on existing trails to protect the thin soil. Supporting local lodges, guides and horsemen helps ensure that the income from tourism stays in the villages.

## Mustang, Tibet or the Annapurna Circuit?

Travellers interested in Tibetan culture often compare Upper Mustang with a trip to Tibet itself. Mustang's Tibetan Buddhist culture has changed less than almost anywhere, and many visitors describe it as "more Tibetan than Tibet". It can be reached without Chinese visas or permits, although it requires Nepal's restricted area permit.

Compared with the **Annapurna Circuit**, Upper Mustang is lower, with no pass above 5,000 m, and focuses on culture and desert scenery rather than high mountain views. The Circuit has more snow peaks and the Thorong La crossing. Many trekkers combine the two by trekking the Circuit over the Thorong La to Muktinath and then continuing north into Upper Mustang.

## Food and apples of Mustang

Lower Mustang is Nepal's apple country. The Thakali village of **Marpha** is famous for its orchards, and lodges throughout the Kali Gandaki valley serve apple pie, apple crumble, apple juice, dried apples and locally distilled apple brandy. The Thakali people are known as the best cooks in the hills, and many Nepalis say **Thakali dal bhat**, with its many side dishes of vegetables, pickles and ghee, is the best in the country.

In Upper Mustang, food reflects the high, dry climate: buckwheat pancakes and bread, *tsampa* made from roasted barley flour, potato dishes, noodle soups and Tibetan butter tea. Yak cheese and seabuckthorn juice are local treats.

## Photography in Mustang

Photographers love Mustang. The best light comes in the early morning and late afternoon, when the eroded cliffs glow red and gold. Highlights include the walled city of Lo Manthang from the surrounding hills, the red cliffs of Dhakmar, the long mani wall between Ghami and Tsarang, the chortens at the entrance to villages and the cave dwellings of Chhoser. Always ask before photographing people, and respect the rules inside monasteries, where photography of the wall paintings is often forbidden. The dust and wind can be hard on camera equipment, so bring lens cloths and a bag to protect your gear.

## Fitness and training for Mustang

Upper Mustang is suitable for fit walkers who enjoy several consecutive days of five to seven hours' walking. Prepare with long hill walks carrying a daypack, ideally on back-to-back days, and cardiovascular training such as cycling, running or swimming a few times a week for two to three months. Leg-strength exercises help on the steep, loose descents. If you have trekked in Nepal before, you will find Upper Mustang comfortable; if it is your first trek, it is a good introduction to moderate altitude without very high passes.

## What does an Upper Mustang trek cost?

An Upper Mustang trek costs more than many other treks because of the restricted area permit, which is charged for a set period with additional daily fees, and the Pokhara–Jomsom flights. The total price depends on the length of the trek, group size, whether you fly or drive, and whether meals are included. Most packages include permits, flights or transport, teahouse accommodation, a licensed guide and porters. Budget separately for your visa, insurance, equipment, drinks and snacks, hot showers and charging, and tips. Our trip pages list the exact price and inclusions.

## Safety and travel insurance

Mustang's main hazards are altitude, strong winds, sun and dehydration, as well as landslides on the road during the monsoon. Our guides check conditions daily, carry a first-aid kit and pulse oximeter, and stay in contact with our Kathmandu office. Travel insurance covering trekking to at least 4,500 m and helicopter evacuation is essential. Keep spare days at the end of your trip in case flights from Jomsom are delayed.

## Damodar Kunda and other remote treks

For experienced trekkers with extra time, the sacred lakes of **Damodar Kunda**, at around 4,890 m near the Tibetan border, can be combined with Upper Mustang. The lakes are an important Hindu pilgrimage site, reached by a remote route with camping or very basic shelter in places. It requires good acclimatisation and a longer itinerary, and we recommend it only for trekkers with previous high-altitude experience.

## Combining Mustang with other trips

Mustang combines well with other experiences in Nepal. From Pokhara, you can add a short trek such as Ghorepani Poon Hill before flying to Jomsom, finish with a few relaxing days by Phewa Lake, or continue to Chitwan for a jungle safari. Pilgrims often combine the Muktinath temple with Pashupatinath and Manakamana.

Few treks in Nepal offer such a complete change of scenery and culture as Mustang. Walking into the walled city of Lo Manthang, after days crossing wind-carved canyons, is an experience that stays with trekkers for years.

## Book your Mustang trek with Himalayan Hiking

We're a trekking company based in Kathmandu. We organise Upper Mustang treks, Jomsom–Muktinath treks, Tiji festival departures, jeep tours and helicopter visits to Muktinath, with permits, flights, lodges, licensed guides and porters arranged. Join a group departure or book a private trek on your own dates, and combine Mustang with a stay in Pokhara or a longer trek in the Annapurna region.

Browse our Mustang treks above, or contact us with your dates and interests for a detailed itinerary and quote.

## Frequently asked questions
### Do I need a special permit for Upper Mustang?
Yes. Upper Mustang, north of Kagbeni, is a restricted area. You need an **Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit** and the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit, and you must trek with a licensed guide in a group of at least two. Himalayan Hiking arranges both permits. Lower Mustang, including Jomsom and Muktinath, needs only the ACAP.

### How long is the Upper Mustang trek?
Most Upper Mustang treks take 12–14 days from Kathmandu, including the journey to Jomsom, about eight days of walking to Lo Manthang and back, and a rest day in Lo Manthang to explore the walled city and nearby monasteries.

### Can I trek in Mustang during the monsoon?
Yes. Mustang lies in the rain shadow of the Himalaya and receives very little rain, so it is one of the best treks in Nepal from June to August. Flights between Pokhara and Jomsom can still be affected by weather further south, so allow a spare day.

### When is the Tiji Festival in Lo Manthang?
The Tiji Festival is a three-day Tibetan Buddhist festival of masked dances held in Lo Manthang, usually in May. The exact dates follow the Tibetan lunar calendar; contact us for this year's dates and festival departures.

### How hard is the Upper Mustang trek?
It is a moderate trek with no very high altitude: most nights are between 3,000 and 3,900 m. The challenges are dry, dusty trails, strong afternoon winds and some long days crossing high ridges, so good fitness and sun protection are important.


Web page: https://himalayanhiking.com/category/mustang-region