# Tsum Valley Trek: Journey into Nepal's Hidden Valley of Happiness

_Published 7 April 2026_

Tucked away in the northern Manaslu region, close to the Tibetan border, lies one of the most peaceful and unspoiled valleys in the Himalaya. The **Tsum Valley**, known in Tibetan Buddhist tradition as **Kyimolung**, the "hidden valley of happiness", is a sacred *beyul*, one of the secret valleys said to have been blessed by **Guru Rinpoche** as a refuge in troubled times. Closed to foreigners until 2008, it remains a place where Tibetan Buddhist culture thrives largely untouched by modern tourism.

The **Tsum Valley trek** takes you through the deep gorge of the Budhi Gandaki, then up into a high valley of stone villages, long mani walls, chortens, monasteries and nunneries, surrounded by the peaks of Ganesh Himal, Shringi Himal and the Tibetan border ranges. Below: the route, the culture, permits and how to plan it.

**Quick answer:** the Tsum Valley trek takes about **14–16 days** from Kathmandu, reaching **Mu Gompa (about 3,700 m)** near the Tibet border. It requires a **Tsum Valley restricted area permit**, the **Manaslu Conservation Area Permit**, a licensed guide and at least two trekkers. It is graded **moderate to challenging**, best in **March–May** and **September–November**, and can be combined with the Manaslu Circuit.

## Tsum Valley at a glance

FactDetailsDuration14–16 days from KathmanduHighest pointMu Gompa, about 3,700 m (optional hikes higher)GradeModerate to challengingRegionNorthern Gorkha district, Manaslu regionPermitsTsum Valley RAP, MCAP (and ACAP if exiting via Annapurna)RulesMinimum 2 trekkers, licensed guide, registered agencyAccommodationTeahouses, homestays and monastery guesthousesBest timeMarch–May, September–November## A sacred hidden valley

In Tibetan Buddhism, *beyul* are hidden valleys revealed by great teachers as sanctuaries for practice and refuge. Tsum is one of the most important. The poet-saint **Milarepa** is said to have meditated in a cave here in the 11th century, and the valley is dotted with sacred sites. The people of Tsum, the **Tsumba**, speak their own Tibetan dialect and follow a tradition of non-violence: hunting and animal slaughter have long been forbidden in the valley by collective vow. In recent years the community has recommitted to this tradition, and Tsum has become a good example of culture and conservation working together.

## Recommended itinerary

DayRouteAltitude1Arrive Kathmandu; permits1,400 m2Drive to Machha Khola or Soti Kholaabout 900 m3Trek to Jagat1,340 m4Trek to Lokpa2,240 m5Trek to Chumling2,386 m6Trek to Chhokangparo3,010 m7Trek to Nile via Milarepa's Cave3,361 m8Trek to Mu Gompa3,700 m9Explore Mu Gompa and Dhephu Doma Gompa3,700 m10Trek to Rachen Gompa3,240 m11Trek to Dumje2,440 m12Trek to Philim1,570 m13Trek to Machha Khola930 m14Drive to Kathmandu1,400 mHave a look at our [Tsum Valley Trek](/tsum-valley-trek), or combine with the [Manaslu Circuit](/blog/manaslu-circuit-trek-guide) for about three weeks.

## Highlights

### Mu Gompa

At the head of the valley, near the Tibetan border, **Mu Gompa** is the largest monastery in Tsum, founded in the 1930s and home to monks who follow the Nyingma tradition. It sits among bare hills and snow peaks, and visitors can stay in the monastery guesthouse.

### Rachen Gompa

**Rachen Gompa** is a large nunnery with a beautiful courtyard and prayer hall, where nuns study and practise. Its peaceful atmosphere and murals make it one of the highlights of the trek.

### Milarepa's Cave (Piren Phu)

Between Chhokangparo and Nile, the cave where Milarepa is said to have meditated is a sacred site, with a small shrine and footprints in the rock believed to be his.

### Villages and mani walls

Villages such as **Chumling**, **Chhokangparo**, **Lamagaun** and **Nile** are built of stone, with prayer flags on every roof and long mani walls carved with mantras along the trail.

## Permits

Tsum is a restricted area. You need a **Tsum Valley restricted area permit** (charged for an initial period, with different rates in autumn and other seasons), the **Manaslu Conservation Area Permit**, and, if you exit via Dharapani, the ACAP. At least two trekkers and a licensed guide are required. More on this in our [permits guide](/blog/nepal-trekking-permits-guide).

## Difficulty

The Tsum Valley trek is **moderate to challenging**. Altitudes are modest, but the approach through the Budhi Gandaki gorge is long and rough, with many ascents and descents, and the climb from Lokpa into the valley is steep. Days are six to seven hours. Previous trekking experience is helpful.

## The journey, day by day

The trek begins with a long drive from Kathmandu to **Machha Khola** or **Soti Khola** on the Budhi Gandaki. The first days follow the lower Manaslu Circuit route up the gorge, through Tatopani with its hot springs, Dobhan and **Jagat**, where your restricted area permits are checked. The trail is rough, climbing and descending along cliffs above the thundering river, crossing suspension bridges and passing waterfalls and bamboo forest. Villages here are Gurung and Hindu, with terraced fields of millet and maize.

Above **Philim**, the trail to Tsum branches off towards **Lokpa**, and the character of the journey changes. From Lokpa, a steep climb through forest leads into the Tsum Valley itself, and suddenly you are in a different world: prayer flags flutter from stone houses, mani walls line the trail, and people greet you with *tashi delek*. The first night inside the valley is at **Chumling**, with its old gompa and views of Shringi Himal.

The next days follow the Syar Khola upstream through the lower and upper Tsum valleys. At **Chhokangparo**, the valley widens into terraced fields surrounded by peaks, with Ganesh Himal rising to the south. You pass **Milarepa's Cave** on the way to **Nile**, one of the highest villages, and finally reach **Mu Gompa**, just a day's walk from the Tibetan border. After a day exploring Mu Gompa and the Dhephu Doma nunnery, perched on a hillside above the valley, you descend via **Rachen Gompa** and the villages of the lower valley, returning to the Budhi Gandaki and the road.

## Life in the Tsum Valley

Life in Tsum follows the rhythms of farming, herding and religious practice. Families grow barley, buckwheat, potatoes and maize on terraced fields, and keep yaks, goats and cattle, moving livestock to high pastures in summer. Almost every family has a member in a monastery or nunnery, and religious festivals such as Lhosar, Dhacyhang (a horse festival) and Saka Dawa bring the community together. Traditional practices such as polyandry, in which brothers share a wife to keep family land intact, were once common, although they are fading. Life here has changed less over the centuries than almost anywhere else in the Himalaya.

## Staying in monasteries and homestays

One of the special experiences of Tsum is staying in monastery guesthouses and village homestays. At Mu Gompa and Rachen Gompa, simple guest rooms allow visitors to experience monastic life: early morning prayers, the sound of horns and drums, and the quiet of the courtyards at dusk. In villages, homestays offer home-cooked meals of tsampa, potatoes, dal bhat and butter tea by the kitchen fire, and a chance to meet local families. Facilities are simple, with shared toilets and limited hot water, but you'll be well looked after. Always follow monastery rules, dress modestly and ask before photographing.

## Combining Tsum with the Manaslu Circuit

The most popular way to experience Tsum is to combine it with the **Manaslu Circuit**. After exploring Tsum, you return to the Budhi Gandaki at Philim or Lokpa and continue north along the Manaslu trail to Namrung, Lho, Samagaon and Samdo, crossing the Larkya La (5,106 m) to Bimthang and Dharapani. The combined trek takes about 21–23 days, through gorges, sacred valleys, Tibetan villages and high mountains. Permits for both areas are required. For the details, read our [Manaslu Circuit guide](/blog/manaslu-circuit-trek-guide).

## Lodges and food

Teahouses have been built along the Tsum route in recent years, making it possible to trek without camping. Lodges are simple, family-run and often attached to homes, with twin rooms, shared toilets and a kitchen where meals are cooked over a wood or dung fire. Menus are short: dal bhat, noodles, fried rice, potatoes, Tibetan bread, tsampa porridge and eggs, with butter tea and black tea. Meat is not served in the valley because of the non-violence tradition. Carry snacks from Kathmandu to supplement meals, and bring cash, as there are no ATMs.

## What to pack

Pack for a range of conditions, from the hot, humid gorge to cold nights at Mu Gompa. Bring light layers and a sun hat for the lower valley, a fleece and down jacket for the upper valley, a waterproof jacket, broken-in boots, a sleeping bag rated to about −10°C, trekking poles, a head torch, water purification, a first-aid kit and modest clothing for monastery visits. In spring and the monsoon, leech socks are useful in the lower forest. For the details, read our [packing list](/blog/nepal-trekking-packing-list).

## Responsible trekking in a sacred valley

Tsum's culture and environment are precious and fragile. Respect the valley's vow of non-violence: do not bring or request meat. Walk clockwise around chortens and mani walls, never remove carved stones, and ask permission before entering monasteries or photographing people and religious objects. Dress modestly, particularly in monasteries and nunneries. Minimise your waste, carry out plastic and batteries, and use water purification rather than bottled water. Support local lodges and homestays, and buy locally made crafts where available.

## Acclimatisation and safety

Tsum's altitudes are moderate, and altitude sickness is less common than on higher treks, but it is still possible around Mu Gompa and on optional hikes higher up the valley. Walk slowly and tell your guide about any symptoms. The main safety concern is the approach through the Budhi Gandaki gorge, where landslides and rockfall can occur, particularly during and after the monsoon. Your guide will advise on the safest timing. Make sure your insurance covers trekking to at least 4,000 m and helicopter evacuation.

## Best time

**March–May** brings flowering rhododendrons in the lower valleys, and **September–November** offers clear skies and harvest activities. Tsum lies partly in a rain shadow and is drier than the lower Manaslu valley in the monsoon, but the approach is wet and prone to landslides.

## Monasteries and nunneries of Tsum

Tsum has an unusually high number of religious institutions for its size, reflecting its status as a sacred valley. Besides Mu Gompa and Rachen Gompa, trekkers can visit **Dhephu Doma Gompa**, an ancient nunnery perched on a ridge above Mu, with sweeping views of the upper valley; **Gonhgye Gompa**, near Chhokangparo; and **Chumling Gompa**, one of the oldest temples in the lower valley. Many of these sites were founded or restored by the lama **Drukpa Rinpoche** and his followers, who revived Buddhist practice in the valley. Inside, you will find butter lamps, painted walls depicting deities and teachers, and prayer wheels turned by devotees. Monks and nuns are usually welcoming to respectful visitors; a small donation is appreciated.

A special feature of Tsum is the prominence of **nunneries**. Rachen Gompa and Dhephu Doma are home to dozens of nuns who study, pray and maintain the buildings. A visit shows you something of the lives of Buddhist nuns in the Himalaya, and a night at the Rachen guesthouse, with evening prayers carrying across the courtyard, is very peaceful.

## Views and mountains

Tsum is known for its culture, but the mountains are just as good. From the lower valley, the peaks of **Shringi Himal** and **Boudha Himal** rise above the terraces. At Chhokangparo, **Ganesh Himal** dominates the southern horizon. In the upper valley, towards Mu Gompa, the landscape becomes high and open, with snow peaks along the Tibetan border and glaciers visible at the head of side valleys. Optional hikes, such as to the **Kalung** area or towards the **Ganesh Himal Base Camp** from Chhokangparo, offer even closer mountain views for strong trekkers with time.

## Guides and group rules

Because Tsum is a restricted area, trekkers must travel with a licensed guide and in groups of at least two. A good guide is especially valuable here: they know the lodges and homestays, can explain Buddhist traditions and sacred sites, translate conversations with villagers and monks, and manage permits at checkpoints. Many guides who work in Tsum have close ties with the villages, and that opens doors. Solo travellers can join a group departure or be matched with other trekkers; ask us about options.

## Connectivity and practicalities

Mobile coverage in the Tsum Valley is limited; some villages have signal, and a few lodges have Wi-Fi, but expect long stretches offline. Electricity comes from micro-hydro and solar panels, so charging can be limited, especially on cloudy days; a power bank is essential. There are no ATMs, so carry enough Nepali rupees for the whole trek, including lodges if not included in your package, drinks, donations and tips. Hot showers are available in some lodges but not everywhere.

## Training and preparation

Prepare for the trek with eight to twelve weeks of training, focusing on long hikes with a daypack, steep climbs and descents, and back-to-back walking days. The approach through the Budhi Gandaki gorge involves many ups and downs, so strong legs and good stamina make a big difference. Our [training guide](/blog/how-to-train-for-everest-base-camp) goes into more detail.

## Common questions

**Is Tsum suitable for beginners?** Fit beginners can manage it, but the rough approach and simple facilities suit trekkers with some experience. **Can I visit Tsum without the Manaslu Circuit?** Yes, as a return trek via the Budhi Gandaki. **Is it crowded?** No, Tsum sees only a small number of trekkers each year. **Can I stay in monasteries?** Yes, at Mu Gompa and Rachen Gompa, respecting their rules. **Is there a road?** Roads are gradually extending up the Budhi Gandaki, but the valley itself is still reached on foot.

## Photography tips

Bring a camera: stone villages framed by prayer flags, long mani walls with peaks behind, monks and nuns in maroon robes, and evening light on Ganesh Himal. Always ask before photographing people and inside monasteries, where photography may be forbidden. Early morning and late afternoon give the best light in the valley.

## Festivals in the Tsum Valley

If your trek coincides with a festival, you are in for a treat. **Lhosar**, the Tibetan New Year in February or March, brings families together for feasts, prayers and dances, although it falls in the cold season. **Saka Dawa**, in May or June, celebrates the Buddha's birth, enlightenment and death with prayers and offerings at the monasteries. **Dhacyhang**, a horse festival held in winter in some villages, features horse races and archery. The monasteries also hold ceremonies at various times of year, with masked dances and chanting. Ask your guide whether any events will take place during your visit, and remember to be respectful: these are religious occasions, not performances for visitors.

## Tsum and conservation

Tsum's tradition of non-violence has made it a haven for wildlife. The valley lies within the **Manaslu Conservation Area**, and species such as the Himalayan tahr, blue sheep, musk deer and even snow leopards live in the surrounding mountains. Because hunting is forbidden by community vow, animals are sometimes less shy here than elsewhere. In 2012 and again in later years, the people of Tsum formally renewed their commitment to protect wildlife, an initiative supported by local monasteries and conservation organisations. By trekking responsibly, staying in local lodges and respecting local customs, visitors help keep this community conservation model working.

## Weather and seasons

In **spring**, the lower valleys are warm and colourful with rhododendrons, and the upper valley is cool and clear in the mornings. In **autumn**, skies are clearest after the monsoon, and harvest activity fills the villages. **Summer** brings monsoon rain to the Budhi Gandaki gorge, with landslides and leeches, although the upper valley is drier. **Winter** is very cold in the upper valley, with snow possible, and many families move to lower areas; some lodges close. For most trekkers, spring and autumn are ideal.

## Costs

A guided Tsum Valley trek typically costs around **US$1,300–1,800** per person, including permits, jeep transport, guide, porter, accommodation and meals. Combining Tsum with the Manaslu Circuit costs more, reflecting the extra days and permits. Have a look at our guide to the [cost of trekking in Nepal](/blog/cost-of-trekking-in-nepal).

## What trekkers say about Tsum

Trekkers who visit Tsum often describe it as the most peaceful place they have ever been. Many remember the evening prayers at Rachen Gompa, the smiles of children in Chhokangparo, the long mani walls glowing in the late afternoon sun, and the sense of walking through a living spiritual landscape. Others mention the warmth of homestay families who shared butter tea and stories around the fire. For many, Tsum becomes the emotional highlight of a Manaslu trek, and some return years later to find the valley just as welcoming.

## Booking tips

Book at least a month ahead, and two to three months for autumn departures, to allow for restricted-area permit processing, which requires your passport details and at least two trekkers. Arrive in Kathmandu at least a day before the trek begins. If you are travelling alone, ask us to match you with other trekkers or join a group departure. Allow a spare day at the end of your trip for road delays on the drive back from the Budhi Gandaki.

## Tsum compared with other cultural treks

Tsum is often compared with Upper Mustang and the Tamang Heritage Trail. Upper Mustang has bigger desert landscapes and the walled city of Lo Manthang, but a higher permit fee. The Tamang Heritage Trail is shorter and easier, with homestays near Kathmandu. Tsum offers the deepest sense of a living sacred valley, with monasteries, nunneries and a tradition of non-violence, and combines naturally with the Manaslu Circuit.

## Insurance

Make sure your travel insurance covers trekking to at least 4,000 m, or 5,200 m if combining with the Manaslu Circuit, plus emergency helicopter evacuation from this remote region.

A tip from our guides: carry some small notes for donations at monasteries and nunneries, and a few spare passport photos in case a checkpoint asks for them. In the upper valley, ask your guide before photographing inside prayer halls, and follow the local rule of not harming animals, which includes not bringing meat into some villages.

## Why go to Tsum

The Tsum Valley trek is one of the most meaningful journeys in Nepal, a walk into a sacred hidden valley where Tibetan Buddhist culture and a tradition of non-violence endure. It's quiet and beautiful, and especially good for trekkers interested in culture and Buddhism. [Contact us](/contact-us) to plan your Tsum Valley trek, on its own or combined with the Manaslu Circuit.

## Frequently asked questions
### Where is the Tsum Valley?
In the northern Manaslu region of Gorkha district, near the Tibet border.

### Why is Tsum called the hidden valley of happiness?
It is a sacred *beyul*, a hidden valley blessed by Guru Rinpoche.

### How long is the Tsum Valley trek?
About **14–16 days** from Kathmandu.

### Do I need a special permit?
Yes, a restricted area permit, MCAP, a licensed guide and at least two trekkers.

### How high is Mu Gompa?
About **3,700 m**.

### Is the Tsum Valley trek difficult?
**Moderate to challenging**, with a long, rough approach.

### Can I combine Tsum with Manaslu?
Yes, the combined trek takes about 3 weeks.

### Are there teahouses in Tsum?
Yes, plus homestays and monastery guesthouses.

### When was Tsum opened to tourists?
In **2008**.

### What is Milarepa's Cave?
A sacred cave where the 11th-century saint Milarepa is said to have meditated.

### When is the best time for Tsum?
**March–May** and **September–November**.

### Is hunting allowed in Tsum?
No, the valley follows a tradition of non-violence towards animals.


Web page: https://himalayanhiking.com/blog/tsum-valley-trek-guide