# Tiji Festival: Three Days of Masked Dances in Lo Manthang

_Published 10 September 2026_

Once a year, the walled city of [Lo Manthang](/places/lo-manthang-upper-mustang) in Upper Mustang comes alive with drums, horns and masked dancers for **Tiji**, one of the most remarkable festivals in the Himalaya.

**Quick answer:** Tiji is a **three-day festival** held in Lo Manthang, usually in **May**. The name is short for "Tenpa Chirim", a prayer for world peace. Monks in elaborate masks re-enact the story of **Dorje Jono**, an incarnation of the Buddha, who defeats a demon that brought drought and disaster to the kingdom.

## The three days

- **Day 1:** masked dances begin the story of the demon's misdeeds.
- **Day 2:** the story continues with more dances.
- **Day 3:** the demon is defeated and evil is symbolically destroyed, bringing peace and prosperity.

## Getting there

Lo Manthang is reached by trek or by jeep from Jomsom. Upper Mustang is a restricted area, so you need a special permit and a licensed guide. See our [Upper Mustang jeep tour](/upper-mustang-jeep-tour) and [Upper Mustang trek](/upper-mustang-trek), both offered with Tiji departures.

## Tips

- Book well ahead: Lo Manthang's lodges fill up for Tiji.
- Check the dates each year, as they follow the lunar calendar.
- Bring sun protection and warm layers; it is windy and dusty.

Read our [Upper Mustang guide](/blog/upper-mustang-trek-guide).

## Tiji at a glance

DetailWhereThe main square of [Lo Manthang](/places/lo-manthang-upper-mustang), Upper Mustang, about 3,840 mWhenThree days in the third Tibetan month, usually in MayPerformed byMonks of Chode Monastery in Lo ManthangMeaningThe victory of the deity Dorje Jono over a demon threatening the land, and the purification of the kingdomPermitsUpper Mustang restricted area permit (US$50 per person per day) plus ACAP permit; licensed guide required## The story of Tiji

The name Tiji is often explained as a shortened form of "tenchi", meaning "prayer for world peace". The festival re-enacts a legend in which a demon, Ma Tam Ru Ta, brought drought, disease and disaster to the land of Lo. The deity **Dorje Jono**, an incarnation of Guru Rinpoche, battles the demon and, after several attempts, finally defeats it, restoring water and harmony to the kingdom. Over three days, monks in masks and costumes dance the story in the square below the old royal palace, while the people of Lo, in their finest clothes, watch from the square and the surrounding rooftops.

## The three days in detail

DayNameWhat happens1Tsa ChhamA giant thangka of Guru Rinpoche is unfurled on the palace wall; monks perform the first dances, telling the story of the demon's arrival2Nga ChhamDorje Jono and his attendants continue the battle with the demon in longer, more elaborate dances3Rha Chham / Ngen ChhamThe demon is defeated and symbolically destroyed outside the city walls, with firing of old guns, music and celebration## Lo Manthang: the walled city

Lo Manthang was founded in the 14th or 15th century as the capital of the kingdom of Lo, a Tibetan Buddhist kingdom that controlled the salt and wool trade between Tibet and the lower valleys. Its whitewashed walls enclose a maze of narrow lanes, houses, the four-storey royal palace and remarkable monasteries such as **Jampa Lhakhang** and **Thubchen Gompa**, famous for their 15th-century murals, which have been carefully restored. The kingdom of Lo was absorbed into Nepal in the 18th century but kept its own king, the Raja of Mustang, until the monarchy was abolished nationally in 2008. Upper Mustang was closed to foreigners until 1992 and still requires a special permit, which has helped protect its culture. See [Upper Mustang trek](/blog/upper-mustang-trek-guide).

## Getting there for Tiji

There are two main ways to reach Lo Manthang:

- **Trekking:** fly from Pokhara to [Jomsom](/places/jomsom), walk to [Kagbeni](/places/kagbeni), and trek north through Chele, Syangboche, [Ghami](/places/ghami) and [Tsarang](/places/tsarang) to Lo Manthang in about 4–5 days.
- **Jeep:** drive from Jomsom or Pokhara along the road up the Kali Gandaki, reaching Lo Manthang in one to two days. See [trek vs jeep](/blog/upper-mustang-trek-vs-jeep-tour).

A typical Tiji trip takes 12–16 days from Kathmandu, including time to explore Lo Manthang, the [Chhoser sky caves](/places/chhoser-caves) and villages around it.

## Permits in detail

Upper Mustang is a restricted area. Foreigners need the Upper Mustang restricted area permit, which costs **US$50 per person per day**, issued for a minimum period through a registered trekking agency, plus the Annapurna Conservation Area permit. A licensed guide is required. Since 22 March 2026, the former rule requiring at least two trekkers has been removed, so solo travellers can now obtain the permit, still with a licensed guide. Your trekking company applies for permits in Kathmandu with your passport and photos. See [permits guide](/blog/nepal-trekking-permits-guide).

## Weather and what to pack

May in Upper Mustang is dry and sunny, but the wind can be strong and dusty in the afternoons, and nights are cold, often near freezing. Bring a windproof jacket, warm layers, a hat and gloves, a buff or scarf against dust, sunglasses, high-factor sunscreen and lip balm. A down jacket is useful in the evenings. The sun is intense at this altitude, so cover up during the long hours in the square.

## Accommodation during Tiji

Lo Manthang has a growing number of guesthouses and lodges, from simple rooms to more comfortable hotels, and at least one luxury lodge in the region. During Tiji, demand rises sharply, so book well in advance. Your trekking company will arrange rooms. See [Mustang lodges](/accommodation/mustang-lodges-and-shinta-mani-mustang).

## Etiquette at Tiji

- Arrive early to find a place to sit; locals have traditional spots, so don't block them.
- Don't enter the dance area or walk in front of the dancers.
- Photography is generally allowed, but be discreet; ask before photographing people, and avoid flash.
- Dress modestly and remove hats near monks and sacred objects.
- Make a donation to the monastery to support the festival.

## Exploring Upper Mustang around Tiji

Plan extra days in and around Lo Manthang to explore the region. North of the city, the villages of Chhoser and Nyiphu have cliffside monasteries and the famous **sky caves**, multi-storey cave dwellings carved into the cliffs centuries ago. Garphu and Namgyal Gompa are short walks or rides away. On the way to or from Lo Manthang, **Tsarang** has a large monastery and old palace, **Ghami** has one of the longest mani walls in Nepal, and the red cliffs of **Dhakmar** are linked to legends of Guru Rinpoche. Many travellers return via Lo Gekar (Ghar Gompa), one of the oldest monasteries in Nepal. Horse riding is a popular way to explore around Lo Manthang. See [Chhoser caves](/places/chhoser-caves).

## Life in Lo Manthang

The people of Lo, the **Loba**, are Tibetan Buddhists who traditionally lived from farming barley and buckwheat in irrigated fields, herding yaks, goats and horses, and trading salt and wool across the Himalaya. Life is shaped by the harsh, dry climate: houses have flat roofs stacked with firewood, and many families still move to lower valleys in winter. Tourism, road access and migration are changing the region quickly, but traditions such as Tiji remain central to community life. Visiting during the festival is a chance to see this culture at its most vibrant.

## A sample Tiji itinerary

DaysPlan1–2Kathmandu; permits; fly or drive to Pokhara3Fly to Jomsom, walk to Kagbeni4–7Trek via Chele, Syangboche, Ghami and Tsarang to Lo Manthang8–10Tiji festival in Lo Manthang11Chhoser and the sky caves12–14Return via Lo Gekar, or by jeep to Jomsom15Fly to Pokhara## Responsible travel in Upper Mustang

Upper Mustang's culture and environment are fragile. Use refillable water bottles, carry out your rubbish, buy local products such as apples, sea buckthorn juice and handicrafts, respect monasteries and chortens, and ask before photographing people. Choose lodges owned by local families, and travel with a guide who knows the region and its people.

## Frequently asked questions
### When is the Tiji festival?
Usually in **May**, for three days.

### Where is Tiji held?
In **Lo Manthang**, Upper Mustang.

### What does Tiji celebrate?
The victory of Dorje Jono over a demon.

### Do I need a permit?
Yes, the Upper Mustang restricted area permit and a licensed guide.

### Who is Dorje Jono?
An incarnation of Guru Rinpoche, whose victory over a demon is the story of Tiji.

### Can I go to Tiji solo?
Yes. Since 22 March 2026 there is no two-trekker minimum, but you still need a licensed guide.

### How do I get to Lo Manthang?
Trek from Jomsom in about 4–5 days, or travel by jeep in one to two days.

### When did Upper Mustang open to foreigners?
In 1992.

### What are Lo Manthang's famous monasteries?
Jampa Lhakhang and Thubchen Gompa, known for 15th-century murals.

### What are the sky caves?
Multi-storey cave dwellings carved into cliffs centuries ago, especially around Chhoser.

### Who are the Loba?
The Tibetan Buddhist people of Lo, in Upper Mustang.

### Is Upper Mustang good in May?
Yes. It is dry and sunny, with cold nights and windy afternoons.

### Where can I stay in Lo Manthang?
In guesthouses and lodges inside and around the walled city; book early for Tiji.

### Can I ride a horse in Upper Mustang?
Yes. Horse riding is a popular way to explore around Lo Manthang.

### What is Chode Monastery?
The monastery in Lo Manthang whose monks perform the Tiji dances.


Web page: https://himalayanhiking.com/blog/tiji-festival-lo-manthang